Journey of My Sorrow

(This is a translation of my Marathi poem)

Recently, I sent my poem “One tear” from 2015 with a new title called “Journey of my Sorrow”. Few friends asked me, “Hey, what happened?” Some others wanted to know what “journey of sorrow” means. A poem belongs to the reader, not to the poet. Reader owns the subtle, delicate waves created in his/her mind by reading such poems. Even then, let me try to answer the above questions in the briefest possible way.

Sorrow is one constant even in today’s high-speed new brave world flooded with social media. Such sorrow suddenly catches me unaware and unarmed, and freezes me in my groove. I had presented four shades of such sorrow in 2015. Sometimes such moments of sorrow are drenched, and I want to throw them away in a flowing river of life like a wasted flower after pooja. Sometimes that moment of sorrow is a weird stranger, sometimes lonely, and sometimes, it is like a detached fakir.

Today in 2022, the same random shades described in the poem in the past, appears to be my journey of sorrow. Am I becoming detached from my sorrow like a fakir, like Yogeshwar Lord Krishna playing on the banks of river Yamuna?

Journey of My Sorrow

One still moment
One stagnant tear
Drenched
Like a discarded dried flower in rain

One still moment
One stagnant tear
the stranger
Like a dark blue cloud on the horizon

One still moment
One stagnant tear
alone
Like infinite presence of north star in a dark night

One still moment
One stagnant tear
the Fakir
Like a floating Krishna in a flowing river

Unfathomable sorrow
And one companion tear!

Nitin Anturkar (June 20, 2015)

Two Articles on My AT Travel by Friends

I am enclosing links for two articles published by my friends about my Appalachian Trail adventure. Please feel free to review.

First article is published by my friend Shantanu Pandit before I attempted the Appalachian Trail (AT) in April, 2021. We grew up together as neighbors in my hometown Dombivli in Maharashtra, India. He is an avid professional mountaineer, outdoor consultant, trainer, writer and activist who promotes safety. He truly operates in multiple avatars. He has done several expeditions and many other adventures in the Himalayas, including the Kangchenjunga expedition (28,169 ft), the third highest peak in the world. He has been my mentor and the safety trainer. I strongly urge all of you to check out his web site called outdoorpandit.com The link of the article on me is as below:

Second article is published by Leaky Boots recently in June 2022 in the magazine called “The Trek” (Leaky Boots is his trail name) after my AT attempt. I describe him as my tramily (trail family) member and a brother from another continent. We met accidentally in Pennsylvania on my recce trip on the Appalachian Trail, one year before my actual attempt. We walked together for five hours and bonded together since then. His article describes our interaction on AT. For me, keeping up with this 80-year old youthful brother on the trail is an humbling experience. Please enjoy!

My Life Experiences

I wrote a Marathi article a few years ago about my mostly non-professional experiences. However, some of my non-Marathi family members and friends requested that this article be translated into English. So, here you go with the unconstrained translation!

As we get older, we all tend to dive into our fading brain cells and pull-out old memories. Then we ruminate on those memorable experiences during boring meetings, on the toilet, when we go to bed, or when we are pretending to listen to our spouses. In my case, I even wrote some nostalgic articles in Marathi about some of these unique memories, such as my excursions as a foodie. But what I have never done is take comprehensive stock of all my experiences. Now, my schoolmates have requested that I write about this entire autobiographical journey. For some of you, it could be an interesting read, and for others, it could be just a diatribe.

To ensure that you are not bored by long articles in this fast-paced world, I will write the experiences as non-chronological bullet points. Go ahead and imagine interesting stories behind these bullets. For example, when I write that “In my 9th grade, five of us walked from Dombivali (my hometown in India) to Raigad (the fort capital of the founder of the Maratha Empire, Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj),” I will let you envision the stories behind such an 8-day walk. These stories could include the burning pain of bulging blisters all over our feet, the anxious palpitation of young hearts knocking on random strangers’ doors in the dark for overnight shelter, and the taste of terribly cooked, scorched rice next to the fast-paced thoroughfare under the hot sun.

Oh yes, we did not share our (Anjali’s and my) personal anguishes in this write-up. Let them remain tucked away in our hearts.

OK, shall we start?

I used to spend evenings in fifth and sixth grade catching fish in the sewer nullah flowing next to our home. Yes, that is really, really true! My hometown fruit market used to be occasionally flooded during monsoon rains, and rotten oranges used to flow in the rapids of this nullah. I would lie flat on my stomach on the sewer bridge in the soaking rain and would try to catch these swaying oranges rushing through the overflowing rapids of the nullah. It felt as if this was the ultimate, adrenaline-rushing fun game that ever existed in the whole world.  Once, my teacher pulled me out of the sewer and reprimanded me in front of the girls from my school. It was a very, very embarrassing moment indeed, not so much because the teacher yelled at me, but because the girls were laughing at me.

As I mentioned earlier, we went on an 8-day walking trip to Raigad from Dombivali. The team of a fabulous five included “mature” adults with ages ranging from 10 to 14. We had no idea where we would stay overnight or what we would eat. Our parents said “yes,” and there we went! A totally crazy endeavor! In the evening, we would literally knock on any random door in tiny villages and request that they accommodate us for the night! What hospitality we received from all these families with modest means and humble homes! With such experiences, it was so easy for us to develop unwavering faith in humanity in those formative years.

I loved to swear in Marathi at my school. Later in college, I added fancy English “vocabulary” to improve my “sophistication” in swearing. In my literary exuberance of cursing, if some gentleman got red-faced and unsettled, I used to refer him to one of the popular Marathi theater dramas, “Tee Phulraani” (based on George Bernard Shaw’s Pygmalion), by the most respected Marathi author Pu. La. Deshpande. The Professor in this play also used to swear and say that “Such beautiful filthy words are the adorned jewelry of any self-respecting language.” I even earned second place in the dorm competition for cursing! But, of course, I have never sworn in front of women, younger children and elderly people.

n my final year of high school, some of my friends incited me to take a math AP class. Our principal was reluctant to conduct AP classes. But somehow, the motivated leaders of our pack persuaded the principal. Furthermore, my close friend Arun Joshi provoked me to take an Arithmetic AP class at the same time. Unfortunately, we had to learn it ourselves, as our principal did not want to offer such a class only to three crazy students. Here in the USA, students may not understand all the fuss about taking AP classes. But this entire self-learning episode during the most crucial academic year was on the borderline of irrational stupidity.

I had a fantastic relationship with my in-laws. I could carry on long conversations with Anjali’s mom. How many people do you know who have such long conversations with their mothers-in-law? Both in-laws have now passed away. But we had a nostalgic, quiet revival of those memories at Anjali’s nephew’s pre-pandemic wedding. That was a great detour into the past!

Until now, I have traveled to 56 countries, sometimes for work and sometimes for pleasure. Nowadays, our family has an unusual modus operandi for such trips. We eat unique local food, sit around watching people go by on the street and observe their daily life, visit local markets, and roam around in nature. We do not chase those conventional sightseeing places anymore that would be promptly forgotten in no time! Some of the journeys are etched in our brains. Te Galapagos, the Amazon Jungle, and Tanzania were simply mind-blowing places. And how can I forget our visit to my brother in New Zealand, followed by a family trip with my parents? That was the last trip with my ever-enthusiastic mom!

I have trekked for more than 300 days in the Himalayas. On the Kalabaland expedition in 1982, at the northwest tip of the China, Nepal, and India border, we had to stay above the snow line for 40-45 days, where snow never melts throughout the year. The only way to get water above the snow line was to melt the snow. We were short of money, short of sufficient porters, and short of fuel. Obviously, water was rationed only for drinking and cooking purposes. What does that mean? It means that brushing teeth and taking showers were completely skipped for the entire 45 days! Woohoo, perfect situation for a lazy bum like me! Never mind that based on my current appearance, many friends think, that I do not take daily showers even today. Hahaha!

When I was working at the Tata AutoComp Systems (TACO) in Pune, I led the negotiations for four joint ventures (JVs). Later, I had the opportunity to nurture these JVs as a board member on behalf of the Tata Group as well. Considering that the Tata Group had 200 companies, very few select strategic companies were led by Mr. Ratan Tata. We were one of those fortunate companies. We met with him once every three months at TACO’s board meetings. I even had an opportunity to have a two-on-one lunch with him, along with my boss. I learned a lot from this incredible mentor and was able to run the business unit without any corruption.

When Aarti and Tejas were 4 and 6 years old, we actually sent them alone to Sydney to my brother’s home. This was admittedly not our wisest decision! The kids even changed flights in Singapore with help from the flight attendant. Later, our bravado melted away. Terrified at the prospect of these kids returning alone, I promptly went to Sydney to bring them back myself. The kids developed such a strong bond with my brother and sister-in-law that when we were returning, everyone in the Anturkar family except me was crying. That bond remains very very strong. My niece’s wedding was a similarly amazing bonding experience in our lives.

I met an elected government official in 1998 near Pune to get approval for an industrial setup. He requested 60 million rupees as a bribe (approximately 1 million USD): 30 million rupees for himself and 30 million for the political party in power. Unfortunately for him, I was raised by parents with strong values and mentored by Mr. Tata. I told him to go to hell. We set up the facility in Hinjewadi, a small village near Pune at that time, where the Tata Group had already established the industrial infrastructure. The government eventually initiated today’s well-known software park there and credited the Tata Group for all the foundational work. Yes, you can stand up to corruption and still build great industrial businesses in India.

I really love exploring all kinds of food. I have enjoyed some unusual exotic dishes, such as grasshopper powder (chapulines) and eggs of large ants (escamoles) in Mexico, horse and crocodile meat in central Asia, unpalatable homemade beer in Kerala, and yak butter tea in Ladakh. In spite of all that exotic food, my most favorite dish still continues to be a homemade traditional Marathi dessert called Basundi (based on thickened milk).

This next experience may be difficult for you to imagine! During the Kalabaland expedition, at one point, my team member Nitin Dhond and I were the only two members present in one of the camps. Suddenly, snowfall began with a blinding whiteout and continued for three days. Throughout this duration, we had to go outside intermittently to remove snow from our tiny tent to prevent its collapse. However, the most significant challenge was that we had no idea how long this snowstorm would last. Rationing food and fuel (for water) in that cold weather was one of the most stressful and anxious moments in my life!

Incidentally, during that expedition, our team scaled seven peaks, including three peaks that had never been ascended before. Did you know that the International Mountaineering Federation allows climbers to designate names for such unclimbed peaks that are recognized on all official maps? Our team did name the peaks using local tradition, language, and norms. This was a very proud moment for all of us.

At the age of sixty, I had an intense, sudden heart attack with 100% blockage of the main artery called Left Anterior Descending artery (LAD) that provides blood to the heart. Apparently, such a heart attack with 100% blockage of the LAD is called a “widowmaker” heart attack due to the patient’s low survival rate.  Lord Yama (the Indian god of death) was knocking on the door. But the door never opened. With blessings from my parents, I felt neither pain nor worry. I exercise regularly. Why me? I have no blockage due to plaque buildup. Why me? I don’t smoke or drink. Why me? Why me? Surprisingly, none of such “whys” popped up in my mind. I had a blast with the nurses and doctors for five days in the ICU. Oh well, who says we should only have experiences of our choice?

I was on the gymnastics team in college. Our coach, Mr. Khatri, was from the army and did not hesitate to smack 20-year-old adult students with his shoes. “Learn to enjoy the pain” was his ruthless mantra.

Before I entered the crucial final year in high school, I scored a pathetic 46/100 in the English language exam. When a teacher visits you at home, you know that you are in deep, deep trouble. Our teacher, Ms. Chemburkar, came home and told my parents that “your child is in trouble!” In India, knowing the English language was (and is) the gateway to higher education and greener pastures throughout life.  After the visit from my teacher, my parents who never went to college, told me something I will never forget. “You are a responsible student, kiddo! NOBODY else can help you shape your future, nobody can!” This was the unforgettable ultimate lesson in empowerment! They did introduce me to a professor named Mr. Gadgil, who taught English at SIES College. He started reviewing one essay from me every day for the next 300 days and told me to start “thinking” in English. Even now, after so many years, I feel that my English is sketchy! Oh well!

The Emergency declared in India by Ms. Indira Gandhi in 1975 was a scary time in my hometown. Many political opponents were jailed. Many families lost their daily income and were devastated. For whatever reason, Ms. Gandhi lifted the Emergency and declared elections in 1977. For reason known only to her, Ms Gandhi lifted the Emergency and declared the elections in 1977. Many intellectuals and writers started campaigning against her autocracy. Some of my friends and I started raising donations at various political gatherings in this oppressive environment without worrying about potential repercussions. I was later appointed as a polling agent by the opposition party to oversee conduct of the polls in Mumbra, a small town near my hometown. I was only 17-year-old, and had never entered an election center. This town was perceived to be pro-Gandhi. I was scared. I had no idea what to expect. Voters would come in, stare at me, and quietly proceed to vote. In the afternoon, one old lady showed up. I was scared when she started walking toward me. She quietly handed me a small wildflower and turned away to the polling booth. I was surprised. What a sigh of relief! With that kind of compassion from ordinary people, the seemingly invincible Ms. Gandhi was thrown out of power. I eventually campaigned only once more, in 2020 in the USA. I hope I never have to campaign again in my life!

My father had a strange ailment that he acquired while swimming in a lake in his twenties. Raw, painless flesh would grow on his upper lip, in his throat, and in the nasal cavity. As this unsightly red flesh grew, it would block his breathing tract. My father required surgery every six months at the government hospital to physically remove this hideous outgrowth. After surgery, until he recuperated, blood needed to be suctioned from his throat using a vacuum every ten minutes while he was still under anesthesia. As a 11-year-old, I spent many nights removing the blood. It’s a very long story, but one fine morning, a doctor at the Haffkine Institute developed a vaccine for his specific problem, and boom—the problem vanished after the unbelievable turmoil of 25 surgeries. Can you believe that even in crowded local trains in Mumbai’s suburbs, nobody—I mean nobody—would even try to come close to my dad due to his terrible appearance?

My father was a blue-collar worker and my mother was a primary school teacher. Neither of them went to college and both barely finished school. Income was limited. And then there used to be frequent labor strikes in my father’s manufacturing uni Then there were frequent labor strikes in my father’s manufacturing unit. How could my parents then provide two meals on the table every day? Well, he would buy vegetable oil and tea powder in bulk and sell them retail in the neighborhood, probably because these commodities had higher profit margins. Sometimes, I would help him out. In my academic life, I learned some advanced mathematical tools, such as Laplace Transform, Eigenvalues, and so on. But the survival skills I learned from selling basic commodities door to door are simply incomparable to the utility of academic sophistication.

My “less-than-ordinary” parents did some extraordinary work. They established a school in Dombivali (my hometown) that exemplified academic excellence. From seventh grade until I went to college, the only two rooms in our home were packed with zillion students from 8 a.m. to 7 p.m. The only available space for the three children and their grandma was in the 70-square-foot kitchen in this “spacious” 535-square-foot palace. Naturally, most of my student life was spent on the rooftop of our apartment building. That is where I memorized some amazing patriotic poems, read some “juvenile” books, taught math to my brothers, and studied really hard for my high school final exam. Did I tell you that despite the struggle to provide for us, my parents never took one dime of rent from the school that he and my mom established? That is what “walk-the-talk” role models look like!

I did a beautiful and risky Chadar trek in Himalayan Ladakh about 8 years ago, involving walking on the frozen Zanskar River for 12 days. It was an absolutely mind-blowing experience with some very challenging obstacles. On one occasion, we had to walk through the waist-deep torrential Himalayan River for 8-9 minutes. To add to the fun, there was ice at the bottom of the river and a lurking danger of frostbite! We walked sideways holding each other’s hands and screaming “ठंडे ठंडे पानी में” (a well-known Bollywood song about cold water bathing) while simultaneously praying desperately in our minds! I was also stuck once in ice boulders. I could see and hear intimidating rapids deep down in the riverbed. Finally, three people somehow pulled me out while lying flat on the ice to prevent triggering cracks with their body weight. After the trek, it took an entire month to bring back any sensation in my legs. I also had to use a donut-shaped medical cushion for one whole year to fix my tailbone from repeated fall in lengthy ice patches.

With limited means in my upbringing, I could never travel away from home. Finally, my friend Arun and I cajoled our parents to give us some money to travel to North India for 90 days. Most of the time, we found refuge on the railway platforms among other homeless people. Eventually, we made friends with some of them, who taught us how to take showers under leaking water pipes between two rail lines. We walked and walked across the cities and ate delicious, cheap street food. We did langar (a service) at the spectacular Sikh Golden Temple in Amritsar and offered chaddar (a traditional Muslim practice in India) at the well-known mosque in Ajmer.

The two most memorable days in our lives were when Tejas got admission to the University of Chicago and Aarti was admitted to MIT. It was their hard work, their disciplined efforts, and their excellence. But we showed off among our friends as if we ourselves had gone to these great universities. These kids have blown our minds with their “out-of-the-box” thinking.

I was a culturally starved moron until I finished college. I never saw a play, never went to a concert, never attended a musical opera, and never heard any great orators It’s true that my family didn’t have any disposable income. But I didn’t even attend free programs. I was personally involved in organizing a Bharatratna Pandit Bhimsen Joshi concert (the finest exponent of North Indian classical music) in my college. But I skipped this program completely. Now, I listen to Sanjiv Abhaynkar and Kaushiki Chakraborty, I watch great Marathi plays, and I visit art museums with my daughter. That is when I realize how foolish I was!

I met some amazing teachers, gurus, and friends in my life. Some pursued their lifelong passion for mountaineering, some played professional bridge, brilliant ex-defense minister Parrikar exemplified a Mr. Clean image in Indian politics, Vasant Limaye became a prolific writer, and Raju Bhat became a naturalist farmer. Some are at the forefront of research in mathematics, some wrote books that created entirely new subjects, and many are celebrity business leaders across the world. I recently found out that one of my teachers was the first disciple of Kishoritai Amonkar (the classical musician referred to as the Goddess Saraswati herself across India). All these down-to-earth, stunning people are working hard to change the world and have made my life colorful. I sincerely cannot thank them enough.

There is absolutely nothing in common between Anjali and me In fact, we are at diametrically opposite ends of virtually every aspect of our preferences and attributes. I love thick curry; she loves thin curry. She wants cilantro in various recipes; I do not. She eats less, and I eat more. She loves to spend money and I do not. I could probably list 500-700 such items. But when it comes to our values and our unflinching commitment to building lasting friendships, we have exactly identical thoughts and actions. No wonder my parents gave her power of attorney over whatever meager assets they had. What can I say? I would love to have her as my wife for the next thousand reincarnations.

Bruhan Maharashtra Mandal is the umbrella organization for all Marathi people in the USA. A few years ago, their biennial convention was organized in Michigan under Anjali’s leadership. I participated in the convention, volunteering for “anything and everything.” For those who are not involved in organizing such community conventions, it is really very difficult to understand the complexities of organizing myriad concerts, performing multiple theater shows, offering amazing food, and arranging accommodation for 4,000 participants in all age groups within the span of four days. I could probably narrate 500 heartwarming stories from this convention. Getting to spend two whole days with my friend and ex-defense minister of India, Shri Parrikar, was one such totally unforgettable experience!

The excitement of starting my own company intoxicated me, just like any other aspiring entrepreneur. I completely failed in this aspiration. I thought I was bringing unique skills and tools to the plastics components industry for the newly emerging modern auto designs in India.  Well, the mighty Tata Group and a few other well-established Western companies were also bringing superior technologies backed by strong finances. I just couldn’t compete. Eventually, the Tata Group approached me and asked, “Why do you want to get involved in this messy business of entrepreneurship? Why don’t you join us?” My intoxication had subsided. I readily joined the Tata Group. I think no one teaches how to deal with failures. It was a tough, humbling, and still incredible learning experience for me.

Another of my complete failures was training for the Ironman, a competition involving a 4-km swim in open water, 180-km cycling, and a 42-km marathon—all to be completed within 17 hours. I lost cartilage in my right knee at the very beginning of training. My entire knee was then replaced with a metal prosthetic in one of the most grueling surgeries and rehabilitation processes I’ve experienced.

Another of my ambitious dreams that Anjali supported was returning to India after spending 10 years in the USA. We felt we owed it to my motherland, which had provided us with top-notch, world-class, and ridiculously affordable education ($12 per year in tuition fees). But it was Anjali who worked hard to support my crazy dream, settling in India for 11 years before we returned to the USA again. Did you know that Anjali traveled and worked in Detroit for 15 days every month for five long years to provide for the family? (I suspect she could write more exciting stories about her life than I could!) I become teary-eyed just thinking about her efforts during that time!

On behalf of the Dandekar Economics Institute, I was appointed at the tender age of 15 to oversee the government’s Employment Assurance Scheme in a very remote, undeveloped region in Wada (in Thane district). Imagine the sight of a mother feeding tree leaves to her small baby to quell the child’s hunger. Imagine the impact this had on me at such a formative age. No philosophy, no preaching, no rationality, no religious comfort or faith—nothing, absolutely nothing can replace the desperation of hunger! I am speechless even now, just remembering that scarring image.

I worked in purchasing at General Motors for 15 years. Almost always, suppliers wanted higher profits while we wanted cheaper, high-quality components. I initiated two major three-year projects for GM. These complex and risky projects involved numerous teams requiring legal maneuvering, public relations and delicate communication. I could write 800-page books on each project, probably in my next reincarnation after all GM confidentiality clauses expire.

A stationary bike falls over instantaneously, while a rolling bike can travel hundreds of miles. Many natural phenomena, such as black holes, ocean waves, airplane flying, and thunderstorms, can be explained by identical mathematical principles. Using the same concepts, I developed a model that could predict multilayer plastic flow and increase the quality and production of some plastic products. I earned my PhD primarily because of brilliant work by people before me in the last 100 years. Isn’t it easy to stand tall on others’ shoulders and then “show off” my PhD?

For all five years of college, I neither shaved nor trimmed my beard. Most of my friends still call me “Dadhi” (which means “beard” in most North Indian languages).

We organized a high-altitude trek called Himankan for 200 students. A long beard, crew-cut hair, a khaki woolen gown, very long beard, and a pair of flip-flops in two different colors were my attire throughout this program. My daily responsibility was buying groceries from local shops in the nearby town of Manali Once, a fellow trekker got off the bus while I was walking down the main street. He looked at my attire and said, “Dadhi, are you wearing anything under your gown at all?” I said, “No.” He couldn’t believe it and challenged me to prove it. I did prove to him then and there that I don’t lie. This trekker was so shocked that he performed the traditional Indian salutation of respect, laying flat on his stomach at my feet right in the middle of the busy road.

I have completed 62 years of life, and my bucket list keeps growing. First things first! I need to complete the stupendous 2,200-mile-long Appalachian Trail, which spans 14 states and involves one million feet of climbing up and down. Then, I need to learn Spanish and Sanskrit, visit the North and South Poles, cycle on salt lakes in Bolivia and India, explore scuba diving in the Galápagos after learning to swim, complete a pilgrimage to the Vitthal temple in Maharashtra, learn the history of paintings, see a world field hockey championship, and so on. Then there are the Dolomites, the great walks of New Zealand, and many treks in the Himalayas. The ride has just begun!

Nitin Anturkar (April, 2021)

Mahabharat and Me

I recently attended a webinar series in English on Mahabharat by the Bhandarkar Oriental Research Institute (BORI), Pune, India. Each of its 15 lectures was presented by the PhD scholar in either Sanskrit language, ancient art and literature, archeology or history. BORI lectures focused on the text and the story of Mahabharat, and stayed away from the topics, such as historical evidence and timeline. The whole series was not just a fascinating summary of the Mahabharat story, but also gave me some idea of why this epic captures my imagination.

What the heck is Mahabharat? Mahabharat is an encyclopedic epic poem (with metered pattern called prosody in English) of 80,000+ verses written in India probably 4,000 years ago. This epic is humungous, really, really humongous. Its English literal translation (without any commentary) has 2.25 million words (Shakespeare’s Hamlet has 30,000 words) and is five times longer than Iliad and Odyssey combined. In 1916, BORI started the monumental project to study more than 1,000+ manuscript versions of Mahabharat in multiple scripts from Kashmir to Kerala, and from Iran to Indonesia. When the project was completed in 1972, it had documented variations in all these texts and arrived at the “critical” edition of Mahabharat using various criteria, including the highest common factors.

Well, the story is a straightforward one liner. “Good people killed evil people”. That’s it. Period. It is the same theme that one hears from Bollywood to Hollywood, and from China to Europe to Australia to Bolivia all the time. So, why has this epic captured the imagination of billions of people from the Indian subcontinent? Why did the behemoth network of the entire Indian railway system (1.4 million employees and 23 million passengers every day) come to a standstill to watch this epic in 100,000 railway stations during the telecast of “Mahabharat” TV serial2 in 1988? Why is the real and official name of India in its zillion languages is “Bharat”, based on King Bharat from Mahabharat?

In fact, this story is not directly relatable to our lives at all. It has too many curses and boons and too many poetic liberties. There is no humor and no romance. But the story has Potter-like magic, aura, expanse, broad canvas and Shakespearean tragedy. The story is fantastic and fantastical at the same time, with hundreds of sub-stories. They all are intertwined, appear in flashbacks, box within box within box, and get connected only over the entire epic. Dr Deshpande (one of the BORI lecturers) has called the story “jigsaw homogeneity”. It is very very engaging story. Even today after 50-55 years, I still remember listening to these stories from my grandma with a totally zapped brain.

While the story is not relatable, the characters are! They are exactly the way we all are, complex, vulnerable, unpredictable, with flexible and contextual righteousness, and steeped in anger, greed, empathy, compassion, love and friendships all at the same time. In Mahabharat, the evil brothers go to heaven after death and good winners start their journey in hell. One single queen is married to five brothers simultaneously, the father king of 100 evil brothers is blind, there is a character of a transgender king, everybody keeps breaking the rules of the war, and the reincarnation of the God, Lord Krishna himself, takes the human form with all its virtues and vices.

And then there are so many messages and incidents in these characters’ lives. Every day, I find some mundane incident in my life that connects me to Mahabharat. I still remember this following conversation from 2 months ago.

Few close families meet at Mike and Betsy’s home for Thanksgiving Day celebration. It is at least a 30-year-old tradition. All of us look forward to this day for three simple ingredients of our lives – families, food and fun. We chat and chat and chat about extended families, this crazy world, our careers, books, movies, the University of Michigan (UofM) and the impending 125-year-old annual rivalry football game with the Ohio State University (OSU). (For readers from India, the intensity of this game is similar to the intensity of the India-Pakistan cricket match.) This time, Mike gave me some advice. “Nitin, I still scream a lot during the football game. But as I aged, I have learnt not to get upset over a loss (of UofM) to OSU.” Hahaha, Mike does not know but he is following one of the tools described in Gita (a key philosophical dialogue in Mahabharat) to reduce misery. It says “कर्मण्येवाधिकारस्ते मा फलेषु कदाचन।“ (One has authority, responsibility and duty to do his/her work diligently, but one should not expect any fruits of the work.3) I will not go in details of our “hard” work of screaming, singing, waving pom poms in front of the TV, and not even going to the toilet to upset the outcome of the game. Phew, UofM won the slugfest this year. But we had prepared not to get disappointed. Mike had reminded us of a lesson from the Gita.

I can just go on and on and on with such day-to-day incidents that connect me to Mahabharat.

In fact, both Mahabharat and my life (for that matter, every human life) are nothing but the multivariable nonlinear algebraic systems that keep changing with time. (Sorry for this nerdy math enunciation!) How does one figure out one’s behavior in such a complex system? Variables in my life include families, friends, communities, countries, the universe and surrounding materials. But the most challenging variable is me. Dr Apte in his BORI lecture says, “When knower himself is the object to be known, solving such life problems is an impossible task.” In such situations, how can I define my “Dharma”? (Unfortunately, the English translation of Dharma is religion. But in reality, Dharma has far broader implications and include ways and processes of life, law and order, righteousness, morality, economics, psychology, rules of the society among other things.) Besides, to make this task worse, the human mind loves simple dichotomous systems. We tend to quickly grasp good and evil, zero and one, up and down. Real life “gray” situations quickly become black and white in our biased minds. Consciously and subconsciously, Mahabharat trains you to deal with such a complex life through its stories.

Mahabharat is visionary and transcends time and space. Let me give you one example. One of the most famous statements in Mahabharat is “अहिंसा परमो धर्मः।“ (Non-violence is the ultimate Dharma.4) From Mahatma Gandhi to Mandela to Dr Martin Luther King, Jr., all of them have used the concept of non-violence in recent times against most vicious tyrannies. Two entire religions, Buddhism and Jainism, have originated from this principle. Sage Bhishma explains to King Yudhishthir that, “Not even service to God and guests, steadfastness of dharma, study of scriptures, performing rituals, charity, self-control, austerity, service to teachers, holy pilgrimages and all other good deeds can even come close to the virtues of non-violence.” But I never knew WHY non-violence is so important. Sage Bhishma further explains, “Do not do something that you do not want others to do to yourself (self-interest). Besides, human beings’ innate ability to understand others’ pains (Sym-pathy) is its ultimate strength. Finally, all humans desire to be free, especially free from fear.”  Did you know that sitting 4,300 miles away from India in Glasgow and 3,800 years after Mahabharat, Adam Smith (father of modern economics) talks about exactly the same principles – Self-interest, Sympathy and Freedom from Fear as the three pillars of orderly functioning of society? Of course, Adam Smith may have never read Mahabharat or not even heard of virtues of non-violence. Who would have thought that such transcendental possibilities, such profound and visionary concepts in Mahabharat will show up all over the world?

While Dr Apte from BORI was explaining non-violence in his lecture, I remembered my own Zoom call with college mates on my plan to traverse the entire Appalachian Trail in six months. Somebody asked me, “Why do you not carry a gun or a knife or at least a taser with you to protect yourself from bears or snakes?” I told him, “No, I will not carry any such weapons. I do not want to constantly think about bears or snakes, and be scared on the trail.” I had no idea that I was merely repeating what Sage Bhishma had said 4,000 years ago. Did I subconsciously know about this connection of non-violence with freedom from fear? Maybe I vividly remembered the fear-free eyes of freedom fighters in Attenborough’s “Gandhi” in front of brutal British soldiers! Who knows?

Mahabharat discusses many fundamental concepts, such as Truth, Knowledge, Time, Happiness, Oneself and others. It may be funny, but Mahabharat’s transcendental vision even warns us from “merchants of the Dharma who will use it for their livelihood”. With all the partisan havoc being created by these “merchants” of all religions across the world, maybe we all should read Mahabharat one more time.

But the most enduring training that I got from Mahabharat is to ask questions, on everything, in every context all the time. Oh my god, there are so many questions in Mahabharat. And for most questions, there are no answers, no prescriptions, no “moral-of-the-story-is” statement at the end of the story. As soon as one character asks the question, some sage promptly starts a story to answer the question.

Sage Bhishma, Lord Krishna and warrior Arjun on the battlefield7

There is a reason for such stories after stories with no well-defined answers. Answers are always contextual. Behavior is contextual. Even Dharma is contextual. That is why questions and answers are a never ending saga of our life and of Mahabharat. There is a beautiful 7-min YouTube clip by a celebrated physics teacher and Nobel Laureate Prof Richard Feynman5. He explains that his answers to the question, “why?” are always subjective. The answer always depends on the context, the assumptions the student has made, the knowledge the student has. “Why one falls on ice?” Answer to the ordinary person is, “Ice is slippery.” But to an accomplished Physics student, Professor Feynman may answer that, “Water expands as it freezes and makes ice slippery.” Professor may explain further why water expands and other materials shrink when they freeze. Never mind that on the frontier of scientific or any other investigations, there are more questions and more unknowns. Never mind that answers to many whys’ based on physical senses eventually break down (Even this limitation of physical senses is discussed in Mahabharat).

Anyway, let me illustrate the complexities of questions with three stories from Mahabharat.

  • River Ganga (English name “Ganges”) takes a female form on earth and marries King Shantanu with the condition that he will never ask her any questions. She drowns seven consecutive babies. Finally, Shantanu stops her when she has the eighth baby, after his advisor challenges him, “Who are you? A king, a lover, a husband or a father? As a king, who gave you authority to not ask questions? Why are you not prosecuting Ganga? Who is Ganga? A killer, a mother, a lover? What is your Dharma? What is Ganga’s Dharma?”
  • King Yayati cheated his wife Devayani and had an affair with Sharmishtha. But Devayani’s father, Sage Shukracharya cursed Yayati and Yayati loses his youth. After lots of pleading to Shukracharya, he gets the boon that he can exchange his senility with anybody’s youth. Guess what? Yayati regained his youth by exchanging his senility with his son. His son became the king and Yayati enjoyed his youth. There are so many books on this story in India raising all kinds of questions. One of my favorite books in Marathi on Yayati even received the national award. I think, you can add your own 25 questions here. There are no answers for these questions in Mahabharat. You are on your own!
  • I didn’t even know the next story until I heard it in the BORI lecture. An old lady Gautami loses her son to a snake bite. A hunter brings the snake back to Gautami. He says that the snake is guilty and requests Gautami to kill it. But Gautami says, “Will it bring back my son?” Then Mrutyu (death) shows up as a character. Snake says, “Mrutyu is guilty, at least along with me.” Then Kaal (time) appears as a character. Mrutyu says, “It was a time for son’s death. So, Kaal is guilty.” At the end, Kaal says, “The son himself is guilty. He should not have ventured out. It was his fate.” One simple story, a classic case of complexities of jurisprudence, and there is no answer. Who is freaking guilty? I suspect that the answer is “It depends.”

In 2010, we were dropping our son off to the University of Chicago. As parents, we were awed by the legacy of professors from Milton Friedman to Chandrashekhar to Raghuram Rajan to Obama. We were impressed by the long list of Nobel Prize winners, the beautiful campus and the general aura of academic excellence. We all assembled in the Rockefeller Memorial Chapel to hear the wisdom from the faculty, before saying goodbye to our son. Faculty gave us a jolt right at the outset of the lecture. He said, “Parents, I have bad news for you. We do not teach anything in the University of Chicago. Students will only learn to ask questions.”

I am happy that my parents did not have to pay the tuition for this training “to ask questions”. I got that training free of cost from Mahabharat itself.

I sense it every day! Mahabharat is my 4,000-year-old past that has prolonged itself to the present6.

Nitin Anturkar

  1. Huge credit to BORI lecturers for their in-depth wisdom, amazing analysis and scholarly articulation. Thanks to my friend, Subodh Ghonge, for referring me to BORI webinar series.
  2. “Mahabharat” TV serial: screenplay by Dr Rahi Masum Raza, produced by B R Chopra. 135 episodes (71 hours) were telecasted on Doordarshan TV channel in 1988-90. The TV serial is available on YouTube.
  3. Gita is a 700-verse core philosophical discussion between Lord Krishna and the great warrior Arjun at the beginning of the great war in Bhishma Parva (Parva means a chapter or a book).
  4. Non-violence is discussed in detail in Anushasan Parva after the war.
  5. Richard Feynman explains the subjectivity of the question “Why?” in following YouTube clip. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=36GT2zI8lVA
  6. I borrowed this statement from Dr Sukhtankar, founder of the project of “Critical” edition of Mahabharat in BORI
  7. Mahabharat painting here was presented in BORI lecture by Dr Bapat and is displayed in Aundh Museum. Many such paintings were sponsored by Panta Pratinidhi of Aundh Sansthan, who was also the primary initial sponsor of the project of critical edition of Mahabharat in 1916.

मी ॲपेलेशिअन ट्रेलकडून काय शिकलो?

ॲपेलेशिअन ट्रेल ही २,२०० मैलांची पायवाट अमेरिकेच्या पूर्वेकडच्या १४ राज्यांमधल्या डोंगरांतून जाते. १० लाख फुटांचा चढउतार असलेली ही पायवाट चक्क बहुतेक देशांपेक्षाही लांबलचक आहे. ही पायवाट सलग ६-७ महिन्यात पार करण्याचा माझा प्रयत्न बऱ्याच निरनिराळ्या शारीरिक दुखापतींमुळे ह्या वर्षीतरी यशस्वी झाला नाही. पण मी जे काही ३३४ मैल चाललो, त्यात शिकलेल्या गोष्टींची ही गम्मत जम्मत!

माझे सगळे पूर्वगृह धुळीस मिळाले. 

तुफान गरमी, चड्डी पासून पोटऱ्यांवर ठिबकणारं घामाचं पाणी, निरनिराळे चढउतार, पाठीवर घेतलेली २६-२७ पौंडांची बॅकपॅक आणि माझं दमलेलं शरीर घेऊन मी एकदाचा “५०१” नावाच्या शेल्टरला पोहोचलो. शेल्टर म्हणजे छत आणि तीन बाजूंनी बंद असलेलं लाकडी घर. ना तिथे संडासाची सोय, ना वीज, ना दिवा, ना पाणी! पण पावसा-वादळामध्ये त्यातल्या त्यात थोडी आश्रयाची जागा म्हणून त्याचा उपयोग. तिथे पोचल्या पोचल्या समोर दिसले ते सहा उघडबंब पुरुष. सगळ्यांचा गांजा ओढण्याचा भाता अगदी जोरात चालू होता. (सगळ्या प्रकारच्या ड्रग्सना गांजा हे मीच दिलेलं मुळमुळीत नाव, बरं का!) ह्यांचे अगदी इंचनइंच देह रंगीबेरंगी टॅटूने कोरलेले होते आणि बाजूलाच भसाड्या आवाजात जोरात रॉक म्युझिक चालू होतं. 

हे सगळं मला नवीन होतं. मी शहारलो. आता हे काय माझ्या नशिबात आहे असा विचार मनात येऊन गेला. त्याचं काय आहे, डोंबिवलीच्या मध्यम वर्गात वाढलेला मी मनुष्य. अगदी सरळसोट मार्गाने झालेला माझा एकमार्गी प्रवास. गांजा तर जाऊच दे, पण २४ वर्षांपर्यंत दारूच्या थेंबालाही मी शिवलो नव्हतो. रॉक म्युझिक नाही, धामडधिंगा नाही, मुलींशी बोलणं सुध्द्धा नाही. साला, अगदीच सरळसोट जिंदगानी होती. आज मात्र इथें मी माझा घामाने पिचपिचीत भिजलेला शर्ट बाजूला काढून त्यांच्यात चक्क गप्पा मारायला जाऊन बसलो होतो. माझ्या शरीराला येणारा घामाचा घाणेरडा वास, लांबलचक वाढलेली दाढी, केसाळ उघडबंब पोट किंवा धुळीने माखलेलं शरीर, सगळंच एकदम त्यांच्यासारखं होतं! त्यामुळेच कदाचित त्यांनी मला त्यांच्यातलाच मानलं असावं. काही का असेना पण आम्ही वेगवेगळी रॉक म्युझिक, वेगवेगळे गांज्याचे प्रकार, ते एकमेकांना कुठे भेटले, त्यांचे ट्रेल विषयीचे अनुभव अशा इकडच्या तिकडच्या बऱ्याच गप्पा मारल्या. (गांजा प्यायच्या पहिल्यावहिल्या अनुभवाला मात्र मी नकार दिला.) 

त्यांच्यापैकी एक जण मला म्हणाला की “माझे वडील धर्मोपदेशक आहेत आणि त्यामुळे मी अतिशय बंडखोर झालेलो आहे.” मग रेनमॅनने (हे त्याचं खास ट्रेलवरचं टोपणनाव) त्याला एक अफाट गोष्ट सांगितली. तो म्हणाला, “बाबा रे, ऐक. तुला एक अतिशय फंटास्टिक आयडिया सांगतो. मी चक्क एकेका धर्मामध्ये एकेक वर्ष अगदी समरस होऊन जातो. प्रत्येक वर्षी त्या त्या धर्माची पुस्तक वाचतो, त्यांच्या देवळात / मशिदीत / चर्चमध्ये जातो, सगळी प्रवचनं ऐकतो. ध्यान लावतो. असे चक्क 12 वेगळे वेगळे धर्म मी बारा वर्षात पाळले आहेत. त्यामुळे आता मला कुठल्याच धर्माचं अवडंबर वाटत नाही, कुठल्याच धर्माचा मला त्रास होत नाही.” 

ओ माय गॉड! एका छोट्या साध्या वाक्यामधून ह्या भसाभसा गांजा पिणाऱ्या माणसाने माझ्यासारख्या सरळसोट माणसाला केव्हढा जबरदस्त धडा शिकवला! पूर्वग्रह घालवायचा काय साधा आणि सोपा मार्ग सांगितला! जरा विचार करा की मी पुढच्या वर्षी मुस्लिम व्हायचं, मग त्यानंतर ज्यू, मग बौद्ध, मग मॉर्मन वगैरे वगैरे! एका फटक्यात ह्या धर्मांविषयीचे माझे सगळे पूर्वग्रह गायब होतील. एखाद्याची जात, कातडीचा रंग ह्यांविषयी पूर्वग्रह आहेत? मग त्या जातीच्या माणसांना मित्र बनवा. कुठल्याही पूर्वग्रहाचा स्वतः अनुभव घ्या आणि मग चट के फट! सगळ्या पूर्वगृहांना बाय बाय करा! अचानक मला जाणवलं की हा विचित्र मनुष्य देवाचा अगदी आवडता बंदा असावा! (हा लेख लिहिल्यानंतर मला कोणीतरी सांगितलं की स्वतः रामकृष्ण परमहंसांनी सुध्दा हीच पद्धत वापरून निरनिराळ्या धर्मांचा अभ्यास केला होता.)

मी भीतीला तडीपार केलंय.

मला आठवतंय! 8 फेब्रुवारीचा दिवस होता. अजून दोन महिने होते मला ट्रेलवर जायला! माझ्या दोन वर्षांपूर्वीच्या हृदयविकाराच्या झटक्यामुळे डॉक्टरने माझी Echo Stress Cardiogram Test करायची ठरवली. त्यात म्हणे मी धावताना आणि विश्रांती घेत असताना हृदय कसं चालतंय ते बघतात. टेस्ट नंतर डॉक्टर म्हणाले, “नितीन, तुझ्या कुठल्याही रक्तवाहिनीत अडथळे नाहीत. पण एक मोठा प्रॉब्लेम आहे. तुझं Ejection Fraction फक्त ३५% आहे. म्हणजे प्रत्येक ठोक्याला हृदयातलं फक्त ३५% रक्त शरीरात जातंय. I am sorry. पण तुला ॲपेलेशिअन ट्रेलचं स्वप्न विसरायला लागेल. आपल्याला खरं तर एक ऑपरेशन करायला लागणार आहे.” मी मनातल्या मनात किंचाळत होतो, “साला, हा काय नवीन राडा आहे?” पण चेहऱ्यावरची माशीसुध्दा न हलवता मी डॉक्टरला म्हणालो, “डॉक्टर, पण मला व्यायाम करताना काही विचित्र जाणवत नाही.” त्यांनी मग एक दुसरीच टेस्ट केली आणि त्यात त्यांना Ejection Fraction ४५% आहे असं लक्षात आलं. मी आता पुरताच गोंधळलो होतो. मनाने कधी नव्हे ती कच खाल्ली होती. ट्रेलवर कसं होणार ह्याची चिंता वाटायला लागली. तेंव्हा अंजली, म्हणजे माझी सर्वात जवळची मैत्रीण, mentor आणि अर्धांगिनी, मला म्हणाली, “नितीन, सर सलामत तो पगडी पचास हे खरं. पण जगात फारच कमी माणसं अशी स्वप्नं उराशी बाळगतात. तू हे तुझं स्वप्न ट्रेलवर जायच्या आधीच रद्द करू नकोस. तुझ्या दररोजच्या हालहवालीं वरून ठरव की आपण पुढे जायचं की प्रवास रद्द करायचा.” त्या दिवशी अंजलीने माझ्या भीतीला खुल्लमखुल्ला ठेंगा दाखवला होता. 

माझी भीती वाटण्याची यादी खूप मोठी होती. दोन वर्षांपुर्वीसारखाच हृदयविकाराचा झटका आला तर काय करू? डावा गुडघा धातूचा आहे, तो तुटला तर काय करू? घोट्याच्या खालचे सगळे सांधे गाउटमुळे दुखतात. त्यांचं काय होईल? माझा उजवा हात ६०F तापमानाखाली बधिर होतो, तसं झालं तर? पेन्सिल्वेनिया मध्ये मोठमोठे प्रचंड दगड आहेत. तिथे पडून डोक्याला मार बसला तर? अमेरिकेतल्या छोट्याछोट्या गावातल्या लोकांनी माझ्यासारख्या भारतीय वंशाच्या माणसाला बघितलं नसणार. मग मला ते कसं वागवतील? दर १७ वर्षांनी Cicada हे किडे प्रचंड प्रमाणात जमिनीतून वर येतात. हेच ते वर्ष त्यांच्या जमिनीबाहेर येण्याचं. ते अंगावर चढले तर? १०-१० फुटाचे विषारी साप ह्या ट्रेलवर खूप आहेत. त्यांच्यावर माझा पाय पडला तर? मधमाशी चावली तर, उंदरांनी शेल्टरमध्ये माझ्या पायाचा चावा घेतला तर, ticks चावून मी लुळा झालो तर? एक ना दोन, ही भली मोठी यादी होती भीती वाटण्याची. त्याशिवाय ट्रेलवरच्या गोष्टी होत्याच. वीज अंगावर पडली तर, वादळात झाड उन्मळलं तर, कळकळीची तहान लागली असताना पाणीच सापडलं नाही तर, पावसात पायाखालचे दगड घसरडे झाले तर? 

ही सगळी भीती आता अगदी तडीपार झाली आहे. अक्षरशः चुकून सुध्दा त्यांचा विचार मनात येत नाही. सगळी आई वडिलांची आणि देवाची कृपा!

ह्यामुळे सर्वात मोठा झालेला फायदा म्हणजे ॲपेलेशिअन ट्रेल नावाचं एक अतिशय सुंदर जग माझ्यासमोर उघडलं गेलं. अगदी अलिबाबाच्या गुहेसारखं. मग मी भलंमोठं केसाळ अस्वल उघड्या जंगलात अनिमिष डोळ्यांनी बघू शकलो. Rattle Snake चं rattle होनाजी बाळाच्या अमर भूपाळीच्या तन्मयतेने ऐकू शकलो. बाकी सगळं जाऊ दे, मी चालताना खूप म्हणजे खूपच आनंदी राहू शकलो. आणखी एक मजा म्हणजे प्रत्येक क्षणाला वर्तमान काळात जगायला शिकलो. हे फार म्हणजे फारच अवघड आहे. घरात बसून किंवा भीतीपोटी हे मला कधीच जमलं नसतं! भविष्यकाळाची अधीरता नाही. भूतकाळाची कटकट नाही. १-१, २-२, ३-३, ४-४, प्रत्येक श्वासाला एक अंक मोजायचा. फार म्हणजे फारच मस्त!

नेणिवेच्या पलीकडल्या फार मोठ्या शक्तीची जाणीव झाली.

कुसुमाग्रजांच्या कवितेमधला एक निळा ढग ह्या निरभ्र आकाशात क्षितिजापाशी रेंगाळत दिसू लागला. हळूहळू तो वाघासारखा गुरगुरू लागला. मग असेच आणखी ५-७ ढग गोळा झाले. मग त्यांची काळी-निळी छटा जंगलातल्या ताज्या हिरव्या रंगावर झाकाळायला लागली. ट्रेलवरच्या Pinecone Needles च्या सड्याचा सावळा तपकिरी रंग अजूनच गूढ वाटायला लागला. जणू काही तो निळा-सावळा रंग आकाशातून जंगलात आणि जंगलातून माझ्या मनात प्रतिबिंबित व्हायला लागला होता. आणि.. आणि अचानक जोरात कडकडाट झाला, विजांचा लखलखाट झाला आणि आकाशातून पाऊस सुरु झाला. कानाचे पडदे फाटतील की काय असं वाटणारा कडकडाट. अक्षरशः आकाशातून दशलक्ष धबधबे कोसळू लागले. आणि ते तुफान वारं ! त्याला मी काय म्हणू? अवाढव्य झाडंसुदधा वेड्यासारखे झोके घेऊ लागली. हे झोके म्हणजे आनंदाने डोलणं नव्हतं. हा होता उन्मत्त बेभान नाच. आल्फ्रेड हिचकॉकच्या सिनेमात कसं दार बंद होताना “कुईई” असं आवाज करतं! अगदी तस्साच आवाज हजारो झाडं करू लागली. लाखो पानातून आकाशाला व्यापणारा गडगडाट (हो, ह्या आवाजाला सळसळाट म्हणता येणार नाही) येऊ लागला. उघडे हात आणि चेहऱ्यावर पावसाच्या असंख्य सुया बोचू लागल्या. अख्खी ट्रेलच कोकणातल्या नदीसारखी वाहू लागली. हे सगळं अतिशय घाबरवणारं होतं. मनाचं कोकरू थरथरत होतं. आणि ते अफाट सुंदर पण होतं. कसं सांगू? जंगलाचा हा सर्वात सुंदर असा अवतार होता. अचानक माझ्या मनाची वीज लखलखली. अचानक लक्षात आलं. वेद आणि उपनिषदांनी गायलेलं हेच ते तांडव नृत्य! तोच तो निळा सावळा शंकर नाचत होता आणि मी तोच नाच बघत जंगलाच्या अगदी मध्ये उभा होतो. त्या पावसात माझ्या डोळ्यातलं पाणी कुठे वाहून गेलं ते माझं मलाच कळलं नव्हतं.

असे केव्हढे तरी वेगवेगळे अवतार मी जंगलात बघितले. नेणिवेपलीकडल्या कुठल्यातरी मोठ्या शक्तीच्या मी नक्कीच जवळ पोहोचलो होतो.  

मौन आणि शांतता अनुभवली

ट्रेलवर दिवसभरात एखाद्दुसरं कोणीतरी भेटायचं. आणि संध्याकाळी शेल्टरपाशी कोणाशी तरी तासभर गप्पा व्हायच्या. पण नाही तर मी दिवसाचे २२-२३ तास एकटाच असायचो. सकाळी पक्षांच्या कलकलाटाने जाग यायची. कधीतरी पटकन एखादी खारूताई वाळलेल्या पानांचा आवाज करत पळून जायची. कधीतरी रातकिडे किंवा cicadas त्यांच्या कर्णकर्कश आवाजाने अख्ख जंगल व्यापून टाकायचे. कधीतरी पावसाची रिपरिप आणि माझ्या श्वासांचा ताल एक होऊन माझ्याशी संगत करायचा. हाच तो जंगलातल्या शांततेचा आवाज. गोबऱ्या गालाच्या गोड बाळाला दृष्ट लागू नये म्हणून लावलेल्या तिटीसारखा. आणि हे सगळं कसं अनुभवायचं? बाकी सगळा कलकलाट बंद करायचा. गाणं नाही, मोबाईल नाही, पुस्तक नाही, काही काही नाही. रक्ताच्या प्रत्येक थेंबाला, प्रत्येक हाडाला, शरीरातल्या प्रत्येक पेशीला ही शांतता अनुभवू द्यायची. अगदी रोज, सगळेच्या सगळे ४५ दिवस अनुभवू द्यायची. 

प्राजक्ता पाडगावकरांच्याच भाषेत सांगायचं तर (फेसबुकचा ग्रुप: माझा मराठीचा बोल): 

मौनात जे सौन्दर्य आहे, ते उपजत असे सृजन आहे. मौन हे केवळ काहीतरी अलंकारिक, काही करून बघावे असे किंवा एखादं नव्या छंदाचे साधन नसून मौन हे पुष्कळ आदिम आणि मूलभूत असे आहे. शांतता, म्हणजे आवाजाचा अभाव नसून, सर्व आवाजाचा एक उच्चतम बिंदु आहे. हयात एक आंतरिक लय आहे, एक सृष्टीशी तादात्म्य आहे आणि सगळ्यात महत्वाचे म्हणजे त्यात निसर्गाचे माग आहेतशांतता ही एखाद्या डोहासारखी भासते, त्यात पुष्कळ खोल असे काही असते त्याच बरोबर त्यात काही गूढ आणि स्वतःच्या आतले काही ढवळून काढण्याचे सामर्थ्य आहे.”

पुढच्या वर्षी परत स्वतःच्या आतलं काही तरी परत एकदा ढवळून काढायला हवं. 

(हा माझ्याच मुळच्या इंग्रजी लेखाचा मीच मराठीत केलेला स्वैर अनुवाद. माझ्या ॲपेलेशिअन ट्रेलच्या प्रवासाचे असे बरेच इंग्रजी लेख आणि इतर मराठी साहित्य तुम्हाला dadhionthetrail.com ह्या website वर वाचायला मिळतील.)

ह्या झाडाचा हा गुणधर्मच आहे

फळं रसरशीत असतात
कुठल्याही ऋतूत मोहोरतात
काही कच्ची असतात, काही पिकलेली असतात
काही झाडाखालीच पडतात
काही पक्षी टिपतात आणि लांब घेऊन जातात
रसाळ फळांचं हे झाड मात्र डवरलेलच आहे
ह्या झाडाचा हा गुणधर्मच आहे

कुठून कुठून झुळुकी येतात
जुन्या झाडापाशी रेंगाळतात
तिथल्या सुगंधाने लहरतात
शिरशिरतात, फुलतात, बागडतात
आणि सुगंधाला कवेत घेऊन ढगांवर स्वार होतात
सुगंधी फुलांचं हे झाड मात्र डवरलेलंच आहे
ह्या झाडाचा हा गुणधर्मच आहे

पक्षीच ते, येतात आणि किलबिलाट करतात
फांद्याफांद्यांमध्ये लपंडाव खेळतात
भांडतात, उडतात आणि परत झाडाशी येतात
आणि एके दिवशी….
झाडाची सावली पंखांवर तोलून
लांब आकाशात झेपावतात
रखरखीत उन्हाशी पैजा जिंकतात
सावल्या वाटण्याचा हा प्रघात अजून चालूच आहे
ह्या कल्पवृक्षाचा हा गुणधर्मच आहे

(जेव्हढी उत्कटता वाटली तेव्हढी मी शब्दात नाही उतरवू शकलो. कदाचित म्हणूनच “फुल ना फुलाची पाकळी” असं म्हणण्याची प्रथा असावी. सगळ्या कल्पवृक्षांना सादर समर्पण !)

Update 9: No more hiking this year!

Friends, I started my hike for a month on 8th August. But I had to terminate the hike immediately as per my cardiologist’s advice on 9th morning itself. Now, I will probably not go to the mountains this year. I noticed on the first day that my pulse rate was shooting up very high during climbing, which had never happened in the past. Then the pulse rate remained above 100 for several hours after I reached the camp site (My usual pulse rate at rest is 55-65). Luckily, I could talk to my cardiologist. He was not concerned about the shooting pulse rate. But the lingering high pulse rate drove his decision to stop the hike, the decision that I fully supported as a commitment to my family and to all of you. 

I met my fantabulous bugger friends and their spouses and kids on 7th August evening. Nitin, Anjali and Priya were great hosts (funny, but the only other couple I know with same first names!). Even within that one-day hiking on next day, I already had amazing experiences. Half-a-mile long, inaccessible and tranquil Sunfish Pond was adorned by mighty boulders from all sides. For the first time in so many days, I saw an almost 270-degree view at Raccoon ridge with a shiny Delaware river on one side and rolling farms on the other side. Apparently, this is a popular site to watch Hawk migration, which will start in a couple of weeks. I was alone in the camp that evening. The sunset was amazing (probably top-three spectacle in my hiking duration on AT) and had an eerie early morning experience of not a single bird singing in the entire jungle. Completely beyond my imagination! In spite of my concern about the heart, that quiet, green imprint will be etched in my brain for a long time.

As of now, my pulse rate is back to normal. However, I have a long way ahead to regroup myself. My cardiologist will plan stress tests for me. Besides, I am going to retry to reduce my weight, find ways to reduce pain in the nerves below my ankles and of course, test out the impact of simulated hikes on my heart. So, I will stay put this year and re-evaluate my plans next year.

I am really sorry for taking you for a ride with multiple quits. But through all of my challenges, you have encouraged, supported and wished me good luck like true friends. That is as amazing as the trail magic that I found on the trail itself. Thanks a lot from the bottom of my heart to all of you, my angels!

Update 8: Back to AT in August ..

When I wrote “Update 7: Thru-Hike is terminated!”, some of you may have misunderstood that I am quitting AT permanently. Not true! I will try to complete AT in the next two years (instead of one year). First such one-month section hike starts on 8th August.

Now back to stories, stories… and more trail stories in random order!

  • There are piles of rocks and boulders for the entire 120 miles of the North Pennsylvania section of AT, also notoriously known as “Rocksylvania”. These boulders are like kindergarten children, undisciplined, unpredictable, and available in all shapes and sizes. But jagged rocks are the favorite of mother nature… and shoe companies. A corporate collaboration made in heaven! And some rocks sweat. I swear! The earth is cold, the rocks are cold, but the atmosphere is hot and humid. You step on these sweaty, wet, slippery rocks, and the next thing you know is that you are kissing them flat on the ground!
  • I arrived at Peter Mountain Shelter with the heat index of 110F. Every leaf, fern, grass, tree-trunk, rocks, the whole world was spewing steam. I could feel it in my lungs. The sweat was dripping from my shorts to my calves. My eyes were burning with sweat. Every muscle in my body was hurting. In desperation, I had swallowed the last drop of water from my backpack. I was thirsty, I was pissed. At the shelter, the direction said “Spring: 0.2 miles, 300 steps.” I was confidently stupid. Stupidity #1: Ignore a warning of 300 steps. Stupidity #2: Do not check with thru hikers already in the shelter about water accessibility. I marched on. Going down 300 steps was quick! Gulping down 1.5-liter water at the stream itself was quick! Climbing back 300 steps was a slow, freaking nightmare. This was exactly 37-degree gradient on a terrible, horrible, wicked 2 ft rocky steps. I died several times. My pulse rate never recovered for six more hours. But then I was the proudest, best trail angel in a 500-mile radius when I gave away 1 lit water to another hiker!
  • I was the only one who pitched my tent at marker 1170.6 in spite of the warning of porcupines near this camp. Yes, I must be a stupid sucker for crazy experiences. I heard a baby-like stereophonic cooing of several porcupines at 2 am and promptly went back to sleep. ONLY today while writing this update, when I was browsing through the notes on AT navigation app Guthook, I noticed the following note by another hiker: “If you are a light sleeper, beware. The porcupines kept me up most of the night having sex right next to my tent. gcs 6/29/21” I suddenly realize now the whole new meaning of “baby-like cooing”. It totally makes sense that a 62-year-old tired snoring fart completely ignores this pornographic odyssey. But how could these porcupines continue their business around my tent in spite of hearing my loud snoring? Some questions are better left unanswered.
  • Me and Leaky Boots were hiding in a beautiful Skyland Resorts in Shenandoah National Park during extreme wind-chill of 3F way back in April.  The resort was offering free coffee to the residents in their lobby. This young, chirpy, high-energy lady gave me a cup of coffee with two sugar sachets. I looked at her and said, “Can I get 8 more sachets please?” She tried hard to hide her shock with her uncomfortable smile! I smiled back. Then I quietly told her, “I am a thru hiker.” Her eyes spoke the words, “Oh, I now understand your request!” Her radiant, helpful smile returned instantaneously. I eat food worth 2,000 cal while burning 4,000 cal on the trail, and lose half a pound every day. I will cajole, shamelessly beg, fetch, grab, make a charming request, do anything for any food, especially sugar!
  • Let me continue my saga of stupidity. The Guthook app showed a rare red circle just 9 miles north of my porcupine infested camp. It said, “Overflooded beaver dam”. Did I know what beaver dam is? No. Did I google for clarification? No. Did I ask my fellow hikers about beaver dam? No. Ignorance is bliss only until you face the situation. This was a stinky, muddy hopeless marsh land of approximately 0.2-mile width. Some enthusiastic AT volunteer had dumped random 3–6-inch diameter logs in this marsh. Cunning mother nature had occasionally dispersed blown down huge trunks across these logs. Now, let us compare Dadhi (that is me!) with the best gymnast in history, Simone Biles. Weight 203 lbs. vs 104 lbs., age 62 years vs 24 years, backpack weight 27 lbs vs 0 lbs. Now consider these self-rotating and floating 0.2 miles of logs against firmly placed, 16 ft long stationary beam bars. Granted that Madam Biles can do some jumps and twists on this firmly placed beam bars well. But I crossed this so-called beaver dam without ever stepping into knee-deep mud! What do you think? Who is better, Simone Biles or me? Nevertheless, my above egotistical bravado of balancing prowess was not impressive at all to my daughter. Aarti later told me that Beaver is the MIT mascot because it is the best engineer in nature. Arghhhhh!
  • All shelters on AT have very basic wooden structures! Three side walls, a roof and a wooden platform. Most have moldering smelly privies, bear poles to hang food bags and so-called access to water. But even among these basic shelters, the dilapidated Bake Oven Knob shelter was excruciatingly remarkable! Chipped floor, lots of overgrown bushes just five feet away, rickety bench and untidy fire pit. Water source here was half a mile away in a jungle covered with poison ivy, requiring scraping the bottom of the puddle 10 times to fill 1 lit bottle. I was disappointed but still decided to stay in this shelter to hide from the forecasted afternoon thunderstorm. I started chatting with Beetle and Country Boy, who had just arrived at the shelter for late lunch. An unknown hiker suddenly showed up to the shelter from nowhere. He said, “Have you seen the snake?” Our eyes widened. We were all excited to see the snake. He said, “Look behind! Look at the corner of the roof!” WTF! My involuntary reaction was quick. I jumped from the edge of the shelter. After observing this curled up 8-ft reptile, Country Boy declared that this is a harmless rat snake. He comforted me, “Go ahead. Feel free to sleep in this shelter!” I enjoyed talking to this tall Florida man in all black attire with in-depth knowledge of various plants. But did I trust Country Boy for my life? No way! I moved quietly to the camp site one mile away.
  • Schyulkill Haven is a nice little town near AT. It has an ATM, Amish food store, specialty beer shop and a dollar general store surrounded by beautiful farmland and rolling hills. Right in the middle of this farmland, they have a huge Lord Krishna Hindu temple called Vraj. Craig, who owns the hiker’s hostel in the town, told us that on occasions like Diwali, this town suddenly gets 4,000-5,000 extra visitors, parking their cars in rented farmland. Who builds such a huge temple with a man-made lake in the middle of nowhere? Completely unbelievable sight!
  • For most people, parents and siblings are their first family. As they grow older, they have their own family of spouses and kids in the next phase. I was lucky. I had an intermediate phase of another family, a 250-300-people strong group of buggers from my engineering college in India called IIT-Bombay. It was my incredible opportunity, my honor, my calling and my passionate, secret desire to meet these buggers and their spouses, while I was on AT. I met Pathares, Guptes, Ghonges, Somalwar and Apte in the last few days. Readers of this blog may never understand this crazy, otherworldly, 100% weird bonding with the smartest people I know on earth. We may never meet for 40 years after college. But conversations start as if we had just met yesterday! If nothing else, this is a strong enough incentive to walk on AT for me.
  • After a non-stop yapping and food with Pathares, Miheer drove for 2 hours and dropped me off at Duncanon, Pennsylvania at the starting point of my walk. As per my request, Pathares had packed sandwiches for lunch and dinner. More importantly, they had not packed anything else as per my strong request to avoid extra backpack weight. But I started craving sweets at 4 pm in the comfortable Clarks Ferry Shelter. Right then, Tooth_N_Boots showed up in the shelter. She was taking a “quick (?)” run from Duncanon before her truck driving shift starting at 2 am. She is from Wisconsin, had completed 2,600-mile PCT in 2013 and loved chatting with fellow hikers in the shelters. We talked for one hour on everything from truck driving, PCT experiences and her long-distance relationship with her spouse (due to her truck driving schedule). Then she casually said, “Hey Dadhi, it’s time to go back to Duncanon for me. Take as many chocolates as you want.” I could not believe my eyes. Snickers, M&Ms and shortbread cookies were eagerly staring at me. Many hikers say that trail talks to them. But I had no idea that trail talks to them ABOUT OTHER HIKERS as well.
  • Cell coverage is pretty good on AT. But there are those lengthy patches with no coverage. The absence of coverage sometimes creates a logistical nightmare. I reached my destination of Rausch Gap Shelter at marker 1178.4 by 11:30 am itself. It was rare for me to reach my destination that early.  And I took my first ever adhoc decision on AT to march on for the next 5 miles. I had one day of food left in my backpack. I also needed to desperately charge my battery pack. It was an amazing plan involving fresh hot pizza, chilled beer, soft pillow and hot shower. As soon as I reached the top of the mountains 3 miles prior to Route PA 443, I called the hotel. The lady on the other side declared that all hotels are sold out within 25 miles due to some Lacrosse competition and government conference. It was a shocker! I was very tired. Next campsite was further 5-6 miles away. Besides, how will I manage food? I was in uncharted waters. I called my bugger, Subodh. And this guy drove 1.5 hours to take me to his home. Just like that! No questions asked! His only mistake was that he forgot to bring perfume in the car. He totally underestimated how terrible I stank!
  • AT is a perfect place to try new recipes. For example, here is a dinner recipe: (1) Take 400 ml of water from a water bottle. Completely ignore the fact that it has hydration salt in it with a strong watermelon flavor. (2) Add spicy cream of wheat readymade mix in the boiling water. (3) Once cooked within a couple of minutes, eat without ever wondering why it tastes fruity. (4) Next day, feel free to make milk chocolate using water from the same water bottle. A fellow hiker invariably would request for hot water for their coffee (since their gas canister is depleted). Always help others by offering your hot water. Watermelon flavored milk chocolate and coffee early in the morning is expected to enhance spiritual experience for both of you.

I will stop here! Stay tuned! Stories will continue!

Update 7: Thru-Hike is terminated!

I had restarted my trail on 23rd June from Duncanon, Pennsylvania. But after nine days and 60.5 miles through rocky northern Pennsylvania, I am terminating my attempt to complete AT thru hike within 365 days. Huge thanks to all of you for blessing me, rooting for me and wishing me for this task. I am safe because of your prayers.  

After my previous unconscious fall (refer to Update 6 please!), my doctor did not find anything wrong with me, in spite of multiple tests. So, I went back to the trail keeping in mind my hydration needs. However, in these nine days on the trail, my poor health legacies have caught up with me. I scratched my right forearm during one fall from a slippery boulder. Fall itself is not a big deal. It is a normal occurrence on the trail. However, since I take anticoagulation medication, the blood kept trickling from the wound for several hours. Two other wounds on both my shins have also swelled due to internal bleeding. I have several patches of bruises all over my body. On another occasion, my right foot slipped and in controlling my fall, my left metal knee bent excessively. Now, it is in severe pain. I had sensed imbalance and slight dizziness in the last two years when I turned my head quickly or bent forward (Due to high BP or heart medication? Who knows?) That sense of imbalance amplified on boulders and eventually crossed my imaginary safety boundary line.

Note the white blaze on top of the jagged rocks! WTF!

It was time to slow down and honor the safety commitment that I had made to my family and all of you. I will continue to hike sections of AT in 15-30-days intervals over next 2-3 years and complete the AT.

Abandoning a well-planned goal is never easy! But I already feel accomplished, rejuvenated, liberated and enlightened even with these 326 miles (525 kms) of hiking.

My biases have been demolished: I had just landed at 501 Shelter after 9.5 miles of dragging my feel in 110F heat index. AND then I saw six topless male hikers at the shelter. Every square inch of their body was covered with colorful tattoos. Hard rock music was blasting from their speakers. They were all smoking pot furiously. I cringed! Imagine my background! Raised in middle-class India, my life had been a unidimensional straight line from point A to point B. No twists, no smoking, no drugs, no alcohol until age 24, no rock music, no wild parties, nothing! AND here I was among pot smokers, removing my shirt and exchanging high-fives. Maybe it is my long beard, maybe a bruised, smelly, hairy body or maybe a thru-hiker demeanor! Whatever it may be, but we could have a long chat about music, various types of drugs, how they met each other and our general hiking experiences. One of them mentioned that his father is a priest, and he is a rebel. AND THEN Rain Man spoke. He said, “You know, Dude, I have simply immersed myself in one religion every year. Twelve religions in twelve years. I would read religious books, pray in churches and temples, and meditate. These religions no more hurt me, man!”

Oh my God! In just one simple sentence, this white dude on drugs taught a nerdy brown man the ultimate lesson of demolishing the biases. Imagine me becoming a Muslim next year! Then an atheist, a Buddhist, a Jew, a catholic, a Mormon and so on. OH MY GOD! It is a simple solution! Have a bias about “something”? Just experience that “something”! I suddenly felt that I met the closest person to God!

My fear is bulldozed away: I remember the date. It was Feb 8. Two months before my thru hike! My cardiologist wanted to do an Echo stress test, in which the heart is observed during intense exercise on the treadmill. After analyzing the results, he appeared worried. “Nitin, there is no blockage. Heart on the treadmill and at rest have identical behavior. But your ejection fraction is 35%. Forget AT! You may need surgery to place a pacemaker!” In my mind, I was screaming “WHAT!” But in reality, I told him quietly that I do not feel weird in my daily training. So, he tested me with a more accurate MUGA scan, which estimated my ejection fraction at 45%. I came home. I was confused! What should I trust? I was scared. I was losing confidence. I did not want to go to AT. Then Anjali gave me profound advice. “It is true that सर सलामत तो पगडी पचास (If your head is safe, you can wear fifty hats!) But there are very few people who are privileged to dream big! Do not give up your privilege. Go on the trail and figure out every day if you can continue!” That day, Anjali was my ultimate bulldozer!

I had a long list of fears. Another “widowmaker” heart attack in the remote part of the trail, broken replaced metal knee, gout attack, frostbite of right hand that starts becoming numb below 60F, occasional freezing of left shoulder, severe pain of weak nerves below ankles, skull fracture on Pennsylvania boulders due to imbalance, my brown skin, Interaction with people in rural USA, sudden knowledge of impending emergence of cicadas, solo hiking, crime on the trail, stepping on poisonous rattlesnake or camouflaged copperheads, staring at bears, rats chewing my toes in shelters, bee stings, attack on my nervous system by tick bites…. This freaking list of fears was very, very, very long. And then there were demons on the trail itself! Will there be water at the next stream? Will lightning strike me? Will my tent fly away in the thunderstorm? What about the baby-like cooing of those 15 porcupines walking around my tent at 2 am? Should I just stay back in shelter until the rain goes away and avoid slippery rocks?

All these fears were bulldozed away. Period.

One unimaginable outcome of a fearless mind was the incredible and beautiful world that suddenly opened up to me! I watched that shiny and furry bear with bewildered eyes, I heard the rattling of a snake as intently as I hear old Bollywood songs, and walking on the trail itself became a life-time experience! Fearless mind also taught me to live in the moment! No anxieties of the future, no concerns of the past! 1-1, 2-2, 3-3, one breath, one step at a time! Literally! Suddenly this hard yoga practice of living in a moment is imbibed in me without me ever realizing it!

I felt the Superpower: It all started at a distant horizon! There was a rumbling in the sky. A darker shadow was casting on bright fresh ferns on forest beds. Pinecone needles on the trail were turning into a mystical deep brown path.  As if the dark blue sky farther away was reflecting from the forest into my mind. In a few minutes, the thunderstorm suddenly started with a bang. Loud cracking sound of a thunderbolt struck my ear drums. Downpour was intense. Wind was furious! Huge trees started swinging from one end to another. The jungle was filled with the sound of thousand squeaky doors from their huge trunks! I could not believe that all those million leaves could make such an ear-splitting and deafening sound.  The rain was piercing my exposed hands with zillion needles. Small branches started flying off. The trail became a gushing stream. It was scary! Very, very scary! It was exhilarating, intoxicating and overwhelming at the same time! The most beautiful avatar of this forest! It dawned upon me like a lightning flash! It was a Tandava nritya by Lord Shiva (Scary dance by the Indian God) and I was a spectator right in the middle of it!

Storm’s bull’s eye right on top of my location!

I had seen many avatars of the forest over the last 45 days! I certainly was closer to the superpower! I am 110% sure!

I experienced मौन (Silence) and शांतता (Tranquility): I practiced silence for 22 hours a day and I experienced tranquility for more than 1,000 hours on the trail. I woke up to the chirping of birds, I was startled when squirrels ran on dry forest beds, quiet drizzle and my rhythmic breathing sang in unison and my mind froze when cicadas screamed from top of their voice. All were superior manifestations of the rare commodity called tranquility! And how do you experience it? You shut up and let all other senses become hyperactive. What a way to live! What an opportunity! I now feel that tranquility in every bone, every blood drop, every cell of my body!

Borrowing the Marathi words of Prajakta Padgaonkar (ref: “माझा मराठीचा बोल” special group on Facebook),

मौनात जे सौन्दर्य आहे, ते उपजत असे सृजन आहे. मौन हे केवळ काहीतरी अलंकारिक, काही करून बघावे असे किंवा एखादं नव्या छंदाचे साधन नसून मौन हे पुष्कळ आदिम आणि मूलभूत असे आहे. शांतता, म्हणजे आवाजाचा अभाव नसून, सर्व आवाजाचा एक उच्चतम बिंदु आहे. हयात एक आंतरिक लय आहे, एक सृष्टीशी तादात्म्य आहे आणि सगळ्यात महत्वाचे म्हणजे त्यात निसर्गाचे माग आहेत. शांतता ही एखाद्या डोहासारखी भासते, त्यात पुष्कळ खोल असे काही असते त्याच बरोबर त्यात काही गूढ आणि स्वतः च्या आतले काही ढवळून काढण्याचे सामर्थ्य आहे.”

“Silence is beautiful. It has a natural creativity. It is not just another experiment or a hobby. It is a basic and profound aspect of life. Tranquility does not mean absence of sound. It is the ultimate sound. It has one internal rhythm. It is one with nature. It is mystic and has a power to churn our soul.”  

I have so many more stories. I learnt to have a mindset of “giving”, I met amazing people on the trail, I visited my family of college friends. There was humor! There was intense agony! There was a hard 37% gradient climb just to get water! There was heat! There was a wind chill of 3F! There was THE TRAIL! Stay tuned. This AT story is not yet finished!

(Credit: When I struggle to find exact English words for my thoughts, Jyotsna Diwadkar is my go-to friend.)

Update 6: Roadblock 5

“Hot from the press” before I start describing the past week.

Roadblock 5: Friends, here is the bad news! In Cumberland valley in southern Pennsylvania on soft farmland, I suddenly fell unconscious on Monday, 7th June at around 9 am after walking 5 miles on AT. I have no idea how I fell, but I do remember that I was feeling good immediately before and after this episode. Luckily, intersecting Ridge Road was within 0.2 miles. I walked slowly to the road, called 911 and went to the Carlisle hospital. They found nothing wrong with me. No concussion, no heart issues, no high or low BP, no reduced oxygen %, no pulse rate problems, no dehydration.  Nothing! Nada! Zippo! It is possible that previous two days of scorching heat at 90-94F may have played a role. Now I am back in Michigan AGAIN to do whatever evaluation my primary physician needs to do. I am safe with blessings from Mr Ganapati Bappa, my family and all of you. It was sad to put the journey on hold. Oh well! It is just another roadblock! We will get through it! After completing all tests, if everything is good, I will be back on the trail in the next 2-3 weeks.

Let us move on!

I had slowly cranked up my walking in the last week. I did 73.5 miles with approximately 12,000 ft of climb up with no zero days. I crossed a 200-mile marker (and was at 259.3 miles or 417 kms) and crossed the Mason-Dixon line into Pennsylvania. Mostly the terrain had been moderate in southern Pennsylvania with some flavor of boulder fields, beautiful rock mazes and sharp drops. Unbelievable stories of thru hikers and trail angels continue to pile up. Animals, such as Juvenile bear (Yessss, another one!), small snake, deer, fawn, turtles, rabbits, zillion birds, trillion cicadas and camouflaging frogs continue to make my days “lucky”. I even watched a parade in a small-town America (Waynesboro, Pennsylvania) on Memorial Day!

Really? How the heck I descend?
How many tractor clubs have you seen in your lives?

Now that I am back in Michigan, I noticed some interesting differences between my typical routine on the trail and my world at Michigan.

  • I have 15,000 alarms set for 5 am every day on the trail. The tunes available on my alarm clock or on my cellphone cannot even compare to the spectacular symphony I hear on the trail. Period!
  • I sleep for 10 hours on the trail among beautiful spiders, rats, lots of bugs, huge bees, snoring strangers, and individual sleeping pads that make huge crimping sounds with each toss and turn. Constant dribbling of rain, rustling sound of leaves, huge buzzing of cicadas and loud cracklings of falling branches add to the cacophony. I can barely sleep for more than 7 hours in my quiet Michigan bedroom.
  • In Michigan, we have 9 taps for potable water (in bathrooms and gardens). Usually, I walk a maximum 10 ft to get water from any point at my home. Never mind, we have one million water sprinklers in my lawn. In the shelter on the trail, I sometimes walk 2,500 ft and climb down 500 ft to get water. By the time I am back to the shelter, I have lost half a liter of water just through my sweat itself!
  • Google says that the average US person consumes 384 lit of water per day. On the trail, I consume 6 liters of water, 5 lit for drinking and 1 lit for cooking (excluding my weekly one shower in the town). Wait a minute, do I not gargle and spit out water after brushing teeth? No friends, I do not. As a good Samaritan of “Leave No Trace” principles on the trail, I swallow the toothpaste, drink water after gargling and after rinsing brush in the water in the pot. I also wash my pot after every meal and drink that water as well.
  • Google also says that per capital per day energy consumption in USA for homes and car driving is 500,000 BTU. If my nerdy calculations are correct, I only need 500 BTU per day for my battery pack and gas canister.
  • Today I counted 14 doors at my home, excluding kitchen cabinets and closets. There are no doors on the shelters and even on many privies (no kidding!) .. and literally no thieves.
  • My kitchen on the trail consists of one 700 ml pot, one small stove (18 gms), one lighter, one gas canister and one spork. I decided not to take an embarrassing inventory of the kitchenware at our home in Michigan.
  • In Michigan, I exercise for max 30 min a day. On the trail, I walk 6-8 hours climbing some crazy rock mazes and pumping my heart beyond my expectations!
  • There is no music, no social media, no TV, no movies, no serial, no news, no stress, no violence, no hatred, nothing on the trail! I am calm, stress-free, happy, enlightened, entertained, rejuvenated soul with simple and beautiful life. Time just flies on the trail.

Yeah! I live in a weird “other” world .. in Michigan! I cannot wait to go back to my AT!

Wooohooo!
Mountain-Laurel, state flower of Pennsylvania

Update 5: Back on Trail after injury

Good news galore! It is now one whole week since I am back on the trail after recuperating from the injury! I have crossed the roller coaster and crossed the states of Virginia and West Virginia. Tomorrow I will cross Maryland into Pennsylvania and will have done my 200 miles! But wait a minute! It does not mean that I am flying. I walked only 51.5 miles and climbed approximately 10,000 ft in one week. After walking about 4-5 miles every day, the bottom of my left leg (including where the injury was) starts swelling and hurting a little! But the next day, my feet are fully recovered! I am keeping fingers crossed that daily rigor of walking does not exacerbate this swelling.

Yessssss, I finally saw a bear. It must have been pretty close to me on the densely forested trail. I suddenly heard a thumping sound and crackling of dry branches on the floor. I was startled, suddenly stopped in my tracks and there it was! Running as fast as it could away from me! (After seeing my beard, many of my college-mates had predicted this bear-running-away scenario anyway!) It vanished even before I could pull my cell phone out. Those of you who have been on birding or safari trips, may be familiar with such flashes of seeing incredible birds and animals for a couple of seconds! Those sights get etched on the brain for a long long time. This bear was huge (a male bear?), had a classical slightly shiny black hair all over his body and had a running style resembling that of a crippled horse. But it moved extremely fast. Note that I was trained to worry not about the bear but the cubs which could be on the other side of the trail. If I crossed the trail while bear is away from the cub, then bear would come back equally fast and make me pee in my pants (which nobody would have noticed any way because of multiple reasons, such as (a) I would be dead or (b) my pant is already drenched with rain, or (c) apart from bear there was nobody within miles in this jungle etc. ). In any case, I did not see any cub, all was well and I continued.

Finally, finally after, hearing lots of noise and seeing holes in the ground, I saw cicadas (For those who have missed this story in social media and on TV, these trillions of cicadas emerge from ground every 17 years for a couple of months on eastern part of USA). They were huge compared to what I expected. When I sat down on a fallen log for my usual rest, water, peanut/raisin snack and to massage my feet, two of them crawled on my hand and a few were crawling on the backpack. After seeing the NPR documentary from 2004, I had a romantic idea of these cicadas crawling on me in hoards, I would take a nice photo of myself and show off to all of you! But in this vast jungle, I guess, such ideas need to be curtailed.

I think I had mentioned earlier that I have a superstition that when I see such animals or bugs, trees dripping with rain, scary and unbelievable thunderstorms, I would have a beautiful week, and indeed, the week was beautiful.

When you experience so many random acts of “giving”, so many trail angels on the trail, how can a week, a year, and even life not be so beautiful? How can I forget a lady from Wisconsin suddenly knocking on our cabin door with warm pancakes? How can I forget somebody giving me maple syrup energy packets for sipping while I was dragging my feet? How can I forget suddenly finding an anonymous cooler next to the trail in Front Royal with very cold water that gave me a quick relief from the hot 90F weather? And how can I forget the 4-year old pigtail (her trail name)! While helping her mommy to bring food to the pavilion, came to me and told me “There is a trail magic nearby. Please do visit. My trail name is pigtail”. I thanked pigtail’s mom for teaching her child a secret of happiness so early in that child’s life!

Rolly Polly received Girl Scout cookies in post office from her mom. Dadhi ate 15 thin mint shamelessly within 15 minutes.

Oh my god! What a trail magic that was thrown by two families. I just can not resist the idea of writing down the spread of the food for you. Here is the spread: scrambled eggs, sausages, bacon, biscuits, at least four types of cookies, hot coffee, hot milk chocolate, hot milk, two types of cold beer, orange juice, hot dog, burgers, great fruit salad, various cold drinks, kit kat, snicker bar, chips, salad, and probably few things that I missed. And oh yes, they did offer ibuprofen (called as vitamin I on the trail). I think the most contagious bug on the trail is “generosity” and I hope that I get bitten by this bug throughout my life.

Trust me, I can not keep up with the stories, can not remember or even note down every day all the things happening! I saw the original Washington Monument built 60 years before the modern monument in DC mall across the Capitol, visited several other civil war sites in Maryland, battled my own demon successfully of hesitating to walk in the rain due to memories of a recent injury, shivered the whole night with cold because now I carry summer gear and temperature suddenly dipped to 42F, met two active military chaplain who struggled to provide help to a Sikh military man (I did not know that finding religious resources for all denominations and religions in the military was their job as a chaplain), met several people who have visited India, met a Caucasian 26-year old hostel caretaker learning Sanskrit because she wants to understand “real” yoga” (and not just stretching), had a sleepless night due to barking dog 2 feet away (poor thing was in misery due to hiking with his mom), met a doctor lady whose firefighter husband passed away on duty and she is trying to regain her compassion for patients by walking three months with his ashes on the trail, met a couple who smoked drugs half of the night in the shelter! Trust me, I have not told you even one third of the stories! I do not think I will ever travel with so many stories in such a short time!

I will try my best to keep up with all the things happening around me and provide the next update after about one more week. Let us continue to pray for people suffering with Covid across the world please!

Before I go, I really want to thank all of you for all your encouragement, wishes and blessings. I read each comment on website and social media, although I may not respond to each of those comments. I really appreciate your interest. Please, please forward my updates and blogs to your friends and relatives without any hesitation. Also please read other blogs on the web site www.dadhionthetrail.com

HUGE Thank you!

Original Washington Monument

Update 4: Twiddling Fingers at Home in Michigan!

Roadblock 4: That is correct! I am injured and recuperating in Michigan at home. On Saturday May 1, while walking on a simple flat terrain, my left foot stumbled on the rock and in the process, my right foot got excessively stretched at the heel (where I had Plantar issues in the past!). I somehow reached a crossroad three miles away, and promptly retreated to Tejas’ home in DC! I attempted to walk on the trail on Monday (May 3) but could not proceed for more than 500 ft. Finally on Wednesday (May 5), I managed to walk for 5.5 miles, but did reinjure the heel again. After a visit to Podiatrist in DC and a quick cortisone injection, I am now healing back in Michigan for 15 days as per the doctor’s advice.

However frustrating this incidence may be, it is a part of the Appalachian Trail saga. A large number of hikers get injured, they back off from the trail, recuperate and then resume the trail. Oh well, I join that club now!

My hike after reinjury on Wednesday (May 5th) was one of the toughest hikes I have done in a long time. I was navigating through the so-called 13-mile “Roller-Coaster” section of the trail. It was pouring hard that morning, every rock and root on the trail had become a playground slide, and my body was working extra-hard to compensate for the injured leg. But even then, some funny incidents happen! I suddenly came across parents with a 6-year-old child on the trail. Before any of them could complain about the rain, I gave this child a high-five and told her to pull the tongue out. After drinking three drops fallen on the tongue directly from the sky, I declared to her that it is a magic potion. It will make her happy just like surrounding trees and I promised this giggling child that she will start jumping within one hour. That same magic potion did not make me jump. But it did keep me safe without any fall.

Prior to the above drama, I had moved further north in Virginia from the Shenandoah National Park. Shenandoah trail was like an IT professional, with trimmed beard, designer glasses and business casual attire. Trail has many fancy, smooth crossroads, soft ground, gradual climbs and wildflowers that are properly lined up on the trail. Once one leaves Shenandoah though, the trail suddenly becomes like a thru hiker itself. Trees grow in all directions like a beard, rain-drenched ruggedness was like well-developed trail legs of the hikers and then there were blown-down trees and zero sophistication of any kind all over the trail. But the foliage was fresh green, you hear constant chirping of migratory birds and frequent streams ensured water supply for my sweaty body.

Roller Coaster in North Virginia

And in this rugged terrain, I got picked up by my first hosts.

I met Varun Chitnis on the AT special group on Facebook and had NEVER met him or his parents before this visit. Although he is half of my age, he has taste in literature and music that matched my liking, and our friendship clicked. I was hosted by his parents in a Virginia suburb. Oh My God, I cannot even start describing all the food that Prachi (Varun’s mom) had made for me for the evening. In a traditional Indian way, I literally could easily imagine her to be the “Annapurna” (The Goddess of Food). And then we all talked and talked and talked as if we knew each other for a long time. I got goosebumps when Varun sang a song of Tulaja Bhavani (A Goddess from the Western India) with his raw, open and edgy voice (That song is enclosed here). And then Shirish (Varun’s Dad) told me a story of his parents. They fought against the British in the Indian freedom struggle. Like many other freedom-fighters, they swore not to talk about their story, as they felt that they were just doing their duty.

That night was a sleepless night for me! I could count so many of my privileges, all because of the heroes like Shirish’ parents. Hikers had always talked about the Appalachian Trail as a “pilgrimage”. I had no idea that I would have a detour of my pilgrimage through Chitnis’ home.

दिव्यत्वाची जेथ प्रचिती, तेथे कर माझे जुळती!
यज्ञी ज्यांनी देऊनी निज शीर, घडिले मानवतेचे मंदिर
परी जयांच्या दहन भूमीवरी, नाही चिरा नाही पणती
तेथे कर माझे जुळती ! by बा.भ. बोरकर

(Where the flame of divinity glows, there I join my hands in prayers.
Those who sacrificed their head in creating a temple of humanity,
But at whose funeral sites, there is no candle and no headstones.
There, I join my hands in prayers! by Baa. Bha. Borkar)

Tulaja Bhavani song by Varun Chitnis

Update 3: Prayers

It is really really hard to send updates when you are sooo tired all the time. All muscles are hurting. Really, really every one of them is hurting! Then at the shelter, I have to do chores, such as getting water from Alaska or India, cooking boring dehydrated food, inflating sleeping mat while trying to not get dizzy, changing clothes and drying the sweaty ones etc.

I know, I know you must be thinking why do this trail if I am going to complain. Sorry if it sounded like whining. It was not. Just continue reading below please!

In last 3-4 days, heaven had descended on earth. There was that foggy day just after rain, one surprise full moon night and one beautiful clear sky during the day. Even Tejas (my son) who was dropping me off at the trailhead told me to say “hi” to Ganapati Bappa and Vishnu (two Indian gods) when I started my walk on the trail. Even he had taken the heaven for granted on the trail! No wonder that the most beautiful things of the world are one with the nature.

I had a roadblock 3. Yesssss, bingo! It is called bull’s eye. Ticks got me before I got them. Fortunately Tejas was around. We immediately went to emergency room as soon as we noticed, and the doctor promptly provided medication for 21 days. Things are completely under control and now when I wander in heaven on earth, I can claim to be fully adorned with awesome jewelry.

Another memorable moment in my life was a St Joseph’s prayer by Leaky Boots for my success and safety. It ends by saying “Divine providence can provide, divine providence did provide and divine providence will provide.” Imagine a devout Catholic praying for a proud Hindu for his safety. Both of us cried after that prayer. It would be so awesome only if if every one of the 6.5 billion people walk on the trail and experience such a simple, basic, heartfelt and beautiful humanity!

On day 12 now, I have crossed 100 miles (105 miles exact), climbed +20,000 ft, crossed Shenendoah National park. Life can not be more beautiful and hard at the same time.

My updates are not like my polished blogs. Please accept my apologies !!!!!

Update 2: Continuing Progress

Dear Friends,

Happy Earth Day. There are too many stories on the Appalachian Trail. Everybody is unique. Hawk is doing sixth AT and is carrying his mom’s ashes with him sixth time again. Rainbow stayed in Pune for three months. Phoenix broke ribs in one year, broke her hand next year and trying Thru hike again like a Phoenix. A couple called BAM (male) and Hero (female) discussed to be on AT on their first date six years ago and here they were within first year of their wedding, raising money for hikingforhunger.org. I can go on and on. The culture of helping others is so strong that it is actually overwhelming and a very nice emotional feeling.

When I started with a backpack on the fourth day, it was pouring at 43F. For me, this was an amazing blessing from the Mother Nature. I also believe in a superstition that when I see something spectacular in nature, I will have incredible year or week. That morning I saw 29 deer. What can I say!

Of course, then this brutal Mother Nature also told me to do my part after getting the blessings. Very sharp 500 ft. climb that morning was tough and beautiful.

It dropped to below 40F with wind-chill of 32 mph yesterday when I was walking. My hands were frozen. I started composing song for lyrics called “shi lagali Ahe” in Marathi, which mean I want to do ‘# 2’. All trees were swinging in agreement that I may not be as good as Taylor Swift or A R Rehman, but I do compose well. Couple of wildflowers whispered in my ears, though, that I need to do better with lyrics.

I had first of many expected falls. I am not supposed to walk straight on the trail when crossing those 18,433 blowdown trees every day. That is because I cannot bend my fully replaced left knee. I am supposed to turn sideways, step left foot across and then cross the right foot. My glasses fell on the ground. Otherwise no harm was done. Now these loosened glasses slide on the nose every 15 min. I adjust them with my middle finger. In this desolate place, it looks like I am showing a middle finger to the Mother Nature. Not true, not true at all! In fact, I am showing middle finger to myself for forgetting the limitation of my left knee.

I have done 53.7 miles in six days. I am climbing on an average 2,400 ft. every day as well. I am not supposed to push too hard according to Hawk, keeping the same rate for next two-three weeks based on Hawk’s advice. I am expected to be fitter then. Of course, everything hurts all the time while walking. However, by every morning, I am recovering well.

Finally, I strongly recommend new hikers to come to Shenandoah national park. It has the variety of possibilities from day hike to various long-distance loops, and easy access to roads and usual city life.

Update 1: Big Bang Beginning

Gear is packed, food for three weeks is identified, medication is added in backpack, permethrin is applied on clothes for repelling bugs, Anjali and Deepa did Indian owalani (doing luminaries for best wishes), Anjali also gave me sweet yogurt for safe return with success, auspicious Indian coconut braking ceremony at the trail entrance has been done, I bowed to Mother Nature, so many of you conveyed your blessings from sooooo many of you, IT IS TIME TO GO! First day completed with 5.6 miles, Second day with 11.2 miles. One day at a time!

I am very grateful to Leaky Boots for joining me for first 8 crucial days on the trail. (Refer to my blog “Tramily” at www.dadhionthetrail.com for reference to Leaky Boots.)

Our first three days (April 16-18) are called slack packing days. We walk from point A to point B, then Tejas/Anjali pick us up and bring us back to the hotel. That is possible here in Shenendoah National Park because of the parallel road called Skyline Drive. Our backpacking starts on Monday.

First day was tough but surprisingly second day was nice. Fatigue is slowly setting in, which will not go away for 7 months.

माझे अनुभव

एखाद्या अनुभवाची खिशातली चुरगळलेली पुरचुंडी उलगडून मी कधीकधी गोष्ट लिहितो आणि तुम्हाला वाचायलाही देतो. पण आयुष्याचं अख्ख गाठोडंच उघडून आत काय काय आहे ते मात्र मी कधीही बघितलेलं नाही. पण आता हाच आग्रह माझ्या शाळेतल्या मित्र-मैत्रिणींनी धरला आहे. ही गाठोड्याला घट्ट बांधलेली निरगाठ सोडवायची कशी? म्हंटलं तर गाठोड्यात फारसं काही नाही आहे आणि म्हटलं तर बरंच काही आहे. आपण असं करू या. हे प्रत्येक अनुभवाचं लांबलचक कीर्तन ऐकून तुम्ही कंटाळण्यापेक्षा मी एकदोन वाक्यात माझे अनुभव फटाफट सांगत जातो. त्या अनुभवांच्या मागच्या सुरस गोष्टींचा तुम्हीच नंतर विचार करा. उदा. “मी नववीत असताना चक्क उठून डोंबिवलीहून रायगडाला चालत गेलो” असं लिहिलं की पायाची टराटर फुगलेली गळवं, दुपारी भर रस्त्यावर स्टोव्हवरती करपलेला भात, दिसेल त्या घरात दार ठोठावून त्यांना आसरा देण्याची विनंती करताना झालेली हुरहूर आणि मिसरूडही न फुटलेली सहावी ते अकरावीतली मुलं ह्या सगळ्या कल्पनेची भरारी तुम्हीच घ्या. त्यासाठी मुद्दामहूनच हे अनुभव काळानुसार सांगितले नाही आहेत. आयुष्याच्या सलग आलेखापेक्षा प्रत्येक अनुभव वेगवेगळा जास्त मजेशीर वाटावा अशी अपेक्षा. एव्हढंच.

आणखी एक महत्वाची गोष्ट. आमची (म्हणजे माझी आणि अंजलीची) दुःखं मी लिहिली नाही आहेत. ती आमच्यापाशीच राहू देत.

मग आता उघडतो हे गाठोडं. होऊन जाऊ दे!!

पाचवी-सहावीत बहुतेक वेळा संध्याकाळी मी गटारात मासे पकडायचो. आणि पावसाळ्यात डोंबिवलीच्या बाजारातून पुराच्या पाण्याबरोबर वाहत येणारी हेंदकाळणारी कुजकी संत्री पुलाच्या काठावर बसून झेलायचो. फारच मजा यायची. एकदा गटारात उलटं पडल्यावर शाळेतल्या बाईंनी कान धरून बाहेत खेचलं होतं. सॉलिड वाट लागली होती.

नववीत रायगडला धाकटा भाऊ आणि ३ मित्रांबरोबर चालत गेलो. ७-८ दिवस लागले. रोज रात्री कुठे राहणार ते माहित नव्हतं, दिवसा काय खाणार ते माहित नव्हतं. आई-बाबा “हो” म्हणाले आणि आम्ही निघालो. सगळंच अगाध!

कॉलेजात शिव्या द्यायला खूप आवडायचं. Netflix वरच्या Sacred Games सारखं अगदी प्रत्येक वाक्यात दोन दोन शिव्या असायच्या. मी शिव्या देताना कुणा पांढरपेशा मुलाचा चेहरा कावराबावरा झाला, तर त्याला मी “ती फुलराणी” मधला पुलंचा दाखला द्यायचो, की “शिव्या म्हणजे भाषेचे दागिने” वगैरे वगैरे. हॉस्टेल मध्ये एकदा शिव्यांच्या स्पर्धेत दुसरा नंबर सुध्दा आला होता. घरी किंवा थोरामोठ्यांच्या सहवासात मात्र शिव्या देणं कटाक्षाने टाळलं.

अकरावीला इतर दहा मित्रांनी फूस लावल्याने चेकाळून उच्च गणित (Higher Math) घेतलं. सॉलिड किडा होता. मुख्याध्यापक शिकवायला तयार नव्हते. शेवटी आमच्या वर्गातल्या सज्जन मुलांनी सरांना पटवलं आणि मग शाळेत उच्च गणित शिकलो. मजा म्हणजे अरुण जोशीने चावी मारल्याने आठवा (Extra) विषय म्हणून उच्च अंकगणित (Higher Arithmetic) पण घेतलं होतं. अख्ख्या शाळेत ते तिघांनीच घेतल्याने ते मात्र आमचं आम्हालाच शिकायला लागलं.

अंजलीच्या आई-वडिलांबरोबर माझं चांगलंच गुळपीठ होतं. भारतात गेल्यावर मी चक्क दोन-दोन तास अंजलीच्या आईशी गप्पा मारत बसायचो. असीमच्या (अंजलीच्या भाच्याच्या) लग्नात ह्या सगळ्या नात्यांना परत उजाळा मिळाला. खूप म्हणजे खूपच धमाल केली. 

आतापर्यंत ५२ देशात प्रवास केला आहे. प्रत्येक देशातली खास खादाडी करायची, माणसं बघत हिंडायचं आणि निसर्गात मनसोक्त भटकायचं हा माझा / आमचा खाक्या. प्रेक्षणीय स्थळं बघण्याचं अप्रूप आता संपलं आहे. बाकी काही नाही तरी प्रत्येक गावचा बाजार मात्र बघायला नक्कीचआवडतो. गालापागोस, अमेझॉनचं जंगल आणि टांझानिया सारख्या काही सुपर जागा विसरल्या जाणं कठीण आहे. आणि आई-बाबांसकट संपूर्ण अंतुरकर खानदानाबरोबर केलेला  न्यूझीलंडचा प्रवास? तो कसा विसरला जाईल? आईचा उत्साह आणि बाबांची नातवंडांबरोबर चाललेली सदोदित मस्करी परत अनुभवायला नाही मिळाली. 

हिमालयात ३०० पेक्षा जास्त दिवस ट्रेकिंग केलंय. एकदा कालाबलंद मोहिमेत सलग ४०-४५ दिवस बर्फरेषेच्यावर राहायला लागलं होतं. आमच्याकडे पैसे, पोर्टर्स आणि इंधन ह्या सगळ्यांचीच वानवा! ​ पाणी वितळवायला इंधन वापरायला लागत असल्याने पाणी पिण्यासाठी वापरणं महत्वाचं होतं. मग आंघोळीला आणि दात घासायला बुट्टी. हो, हो, अगदी सलग ४५ दिवस. कित्ती मज्जा! बऱ्याच मित्रांना माझा चेहरा बघून हल्ली पण हा अंघोळ करत नाही की काय असं वाटत असावं. पण ते जाऊ दे.

टाटा ऑटोकॉम्प मध्ये असताना चार जॉईंट व्हेंचर्स भारतात प्रस्थापित केली. नंतर बोर्ड मेंबर ह्या नात्याने त्यांचं संगोपनही केलं. सध्या त्या कंपन्या जोरात चालू आहेत. आमच्या कंपनीचे अध्यक्ष स्वतः रतन टाटाच असल्याने दर तीन महिन्यांनी त्यांची भेट होत असे (टाटा ग्रुपच्या २०० हुन अधिक कंपन्या असल्याने श्री टाटा फक्त काहीच कंपन्यांचे अध्यक्ष होते.) एकदा मी, माझा बॉस आणि श्री टाटा अशा तिघांनाच एकत्र लंच घेण्याचा योग्य सुध्दा आला होता. ह्या अफाट गुरूकडून बरंच काही शिकलो आणि कोणालाही लाच ना देता कंपनी चालवू शकलो.

हा अनुभव म्हंटला तर आमचा, म्हंटला तर मुलांचा. आरती आणि तेजस साधारणतः ४ आणि ६ वर्षांचे असताना आम्ही त्यांना चक्क मुंबईहून सिडनीला भावाकडे एकटं पाठवलं. मध्ये सिंगापूरला त्यांनी विमान सुध्दा बदललं. अर्थात हे सगळं हवाईसुंदरींच्या मदतीने. नंतर मात्र आमचं अवसान गळालं आणि परतीच्या प्रवासाला मी त्यांना आणायला गेलो होतो. ह्या मुलांना आणि भाऊ-वहिनी-भाचा ह्यांना एकमेकांचा एव्हढा लळा लागला होता की निघताना माझ्याखेरीज उरलेले सगळे घळाघळा रडत होते. तो मुलांचा लळा अख्ख्या अंतुरकर खानदानाशी अजून तेव्हढाच टिकून आहे. ह्या आमच्या कुटुंबातलं पहिलं-वहिलं लग्न, युतीका-प्रिन्स मधलं, हा असाच आमच्यातले दुवे घट्ट करणारा अफलातून अनुभव होता.

एकदा एका उत्पादन प्रकल्पासाठी चिंचवड प्राधिकरणाच्या मुख्य माणसाला भेटलो. त्याने मला ६ कोटी रुपये मागितले. ३ कोटी त्याला आणि ३ कोटी एका राजकीय पक्षाला. मी पडलो टाटा ग्रुपचा मनुष्य आणि माझ्या आई-बाबांचा मुलगा. त्या माणसाच्या नाकावर टिच्चून शेवटी हिंजेवाडीत प्रकल्प उभा केला. टाटा ग्रुपने अख्खी पॉवर लाईन आधीच स्वतःच्या खर्चाने हिंजेवाडीत आणली होती. (आणि मजा म्हणजे त्या जोरावर मग महाराष्ट्र सरकारने तिथे हल्लीची प्रसिद्ध सॉफ्टवेअर पार्क पण उभी केली. आमच्या नशिबाने सरकारने टाटा ग्रुपला क्रेडिट तरी दिलं.) सध्या हिंजेवाडी एकदम जोरात आहे. भ्रष्टाचाऱ्याला टिंगणी दाखवून यशस्वी प्रकल्प असेही उभे राहतात.

खादाडी खूप म्हणजे खूपच आवडते. नाकतोडे, घोडे, मुंग्यांची अंडी आणि मगरी खाऊन सुदधा शेवटी गाडी बासुंदीवरच येऊन थांबते. माझ्या पोतडीत नुसत्या खादाडीवर सुध्दा बऱ्याच गोष्टी आहेत. मराठी असून सुदधा मुगाची खिचडी, पिठलं, भाकरी ह्या अशा गोष्टी मला आवडत नाहीत. “अर्थात, नाहीच आवडणार. ह्या गोष्टी पटकन करता येतात ना!” इति आमच्या घरातल्या महाराणीसाहेब.

हा पुढचा अनुभव तुम्हाला उमजणं जरा कठीणच आहे. कालाबलंद मोहिमेमध्ये एका कॅम्पमध्ये मी आणि नितीन धोंड दोघेच होतो आणि अचानक खूप बर्फ सुरु झाल्याने तंबूत २-३ दिवस अडकलो होतो. पाच फुटांवरचं पण दिसत नव्हतं. तंबू छोटा. फक्त आडवं झोपण्याएव्हढा. दर दोन तासाने बाहेर जाऊन सारखा तंबूवरचा बर्फ काढायला लागत होता. आणि सर्वात महत्वाचं म्हणजे हे बर्फाचं वादळ किती दिवस चालणार हे माहित नसल्याने जेवणाचं आणि पाण्यामुळे इंधनाचं रेशन करायला लागत होतं. मानसिक परीक्षा घेणारा हा अफलातून अनुभव होता.

त्याच कालाबलंद मोहिमेतली आणखी एक मजा म्हणजे त्या एकाच मोहिमेत आम्ही चक्क सात शिखरं सर केली. त्यातली तीन शिखरं तर आत्तापर्यंत कोणीच सर केलेली नव्हती. तुम्हाला हे कदाचित माहिती नसेल की International Mountaineering Federation अशा गिर्यारोहकांना ह्या शिखरांचं बारसं करू देते! आणि मग अशी नावं जगातल्या सगळ्या नकाशात प्रसिद्ध होतात. आम्हाला ह्या तीन शिखरांना नावं देण्याचा मान मिळाला हे खरं! पण तिथल्या स्थानिक परंपरा आणि भाषेनुसार ती नावं देऊन मला वाटतं आम्ही तिथल्या स्थानिक लोकांचा गौरवच केला. त्याचाच आम्हाला जास्त अभिमान वाटला. 

मला साठाव्या वर्षात चक्क हार्ट अटॅक आला. ह्या प्रकारच्या तीव्र STEMI अटॅकला चक्क म्हणे “widowmaker” अटॅक म्हणतात. माहेरचं दार ठोठावलं होतं. पण “त्यांनी” उघडलंच नाही. आई वडिलांच्या कृपेने वेदना आणि चिंता दोन्हीही अक्षरशः जाणवल्या नाहीत. एव्हढा व्यायाम लहानपणापासून करत असून आणि कुठेही ब्लॉक नसताना रक्तवाहिनी कशी बंद पडली असला विचार मनात आला नाही. पाच दिवस ICU मध्ये सगळ्या नर्स आणि डॉक्टरांबरोबर नुसते धमाल विनोद चालू होते. हाहाहा, अनुभव फक्त आपल्याला पाहिजते असेच असावेत असं थोडंच कपाळावर लिहिलेलं असतं!

कॉलेजात जिम्नॅस्टिकस करायचो आणि निरनिराळ्या स्पर्धेत भाग घ्यायचो. आर्मीमधले खत्री सर आमचे प्रशिक्षक होते. चपलेने मारायचे. “वेदना होत असताना आनंद घ्यायला शिका” हा मानसिक मंत्र शारीरिक खेळ खेळताना त्यांनी शिकवला.

दहावीत इंग्रजीत ४६ / १०० मार्क मिळाले. चेम्बुरकर बाई घरी आल्या. आई बाबांना म्हणाल्या “ह्याचं काही खरं नाही.” मग आई-बाबा मला म्हणाले, “तू हुशार आहेस. तू आणि तुझं भवितव्य, तुझं तूच बघ.” ह्याला म्हणतात Ultimate Empowerment. ह्या अनाडी आई-बापांनी माझी मग प्रोफेसर गाडगीळांशी गाठ घालून दिली, जे SIES कॉलेजात विंदा करंदीकरांबरोबर इंग्लिश शिकवायचे. पुढचे ३०० दिवस रोज एक निबंध लिहून त्यांच्याकडून तपासून घ्यायचो. अजूनही अवघड शब्द दिसला की अंजलीला विचारायला लागतो. उदा. Bard म्हणजे शेक्सपिअर हे मला मागच्या आठवड्यात कळलं.

१९७५च्या आणीबाणीने सगळीकडे घबराट निर्माण झाली आणि डोंबिवलीचे बरेच कुटुंबप्रमुख जेल मध्ये गेल्याने माझ्या माहितीतल्या कित्येक कुटुंबांची धूळदाण उडाली. आणीबाणी उठल्यानंतर आम्ही काही जण चक्क चादरी घेऊन दुर्गा भागवत आणि पुलंच्या सभांमध्ये निवडणुकीसाठी पैसे गोळा करायचो. माझा अविस्मरणीय अनुभव म्हणजे वयाच्या १७व्या वर्षी माझी पोलिंग एजन्ट म्हणून मुंब्र्याला झालेली नियुक्ती. मतदान केंद्र आतून काळं असतं की गोरं हे ही माहिती नव्हतं. जीव मुठीत धरून ह्या मुस्लिम वस्तीतल्या मतदान केंद्रावर जनता पार्टीचा ड्रेस घालून बसलो होतो. चक्क एका मुस्लिम म्हाताऱ्या बाईने मला मतदान केंद्राच्या आत जेंव्हा रानफूल आणून दिलं तेंव्हा कुठे हुश्य झालं, आश्चर्य वाटलं आणि जीवात जीव आला. त्यावेळी मुंब्र्याने म्हाळगींसाऱख्या संघ प्रचारकाला डोंबिवलीपेक्षा जास्त टक्क्याने मतदान केलं होतं. आता इथे अमेरिकेतल्या कर्मभूमीत, आणिबाणीसारख्या परिस्थितीत, परत निवडणुकांच्या प्रचारासाठी उतरलो होतो. पण हे आयुष्यात दोनदाच! परत कधी उतरायला लागणार नाही ही अपेक्षा.  

बाबांच्या नाका-घशात आणि ओठांवर मांस वाढायचं. ते दुखत नसलं तरी ते लालभडक मांस फारच किळसवाणं दिसायचं आणि हळूहळू श्वासोच्छवास बंद व्हायचा. मग दर ६ महिन्यांनी सरकारी इस्पितळात बाबांचं ऑपरेशन व्हायचं. त्यांचा घसा उघडा ठेवून जमा झालेलं रक्त दर १० मिनिटांनी vacuum लावून काढायला लागायचं. बऱ्याच वेळा मी असं रक्त काढत रात्री-रात्री जागून काढल्या आहेत. नंतर टाटा मेमोरियल मधल्या एका लसीने अचानक त्यांचा हा प्रॉब्लेम नाहीसा झाला. असेही असतात एकेक अनुभव. त्यातलीच एक मजा म्हणजे त्यांचं ओठांवरचं लालभडक मांस बघून लोकल ट्रेन मध्ये त्या एव्हढ्या गर्दीत सुदधा कोणीही आमच्या जवळ फिरकायचे सुध्दा नाहीत.

बाबा होते कामगार आणि आई होती प्राथमिक शाळेतली शिक्षिका. दोघेही कधी कॉलेजात गेले नाहीत. दोघेही अकरावीत एकदा दोनदा नापास झालेले. अजून शिक्षण नकोच हा विचार. बाबांच्या कंपनीत सारखा संप व्हायचा. मग घरात दोन वेळा जेवायची सुध्दा भ्रांत असायची. बाबा अशावेळी चहा आणि तेल घाऊक प्रमाणात विकत आणायचे आणि घरोघरी जाऊन विकायचे. कधीकधी मी पण ते विकायचो. गणितातले खास Laplace Transform आणि Eigen Value वगैरे शिकण्यापेक्षाही हे अनुभव खूपच महत्वाचे. त्यातून हा प्रकार विद्यापीठात शिकायला मिळत नाही. पण हे पालकांना समजावणार कोण?

माझ्या सातवीपासून ते कॉलेजात जाईपर्यंत आमच्या घरात सकाळी ८ पासून ते संध्यकाळी ७ पर्यंत आई-बाबांनी स्थापन केलेल्या शाळेच्या चार तुकड्या चालायच्या. स्वैपाकघर आणि छोटीशी बाल्कनी सोडली तर इतर ठिकाणी उभं राहायला सुध्दा जागा नव्हती. त्यामुळे माझं सगळं आयुष्य गच्चीतच गेलं. तिथेच “जयोस्तुते” पाठ केलं, तिथेच धाकट्या भावांना शिकवताना भांडी फेकून मारली, तिथेच चावट पुस्तकं वाचली आणि तिथेच अकरावीला मरमरून अभ्यास केला. अरे हो, बाबा चहा, तेल घरोघरी विकायचे पण शाळेकडून त्यांनी भाडं कधी घेतलं नाही. असे होते माझे रोल मॉडेल्स!

७ वर्षांपूर्वी एक हिवाळ्यातली अफलातून धोकादायक पण अतिसुंदर ट्रेक केली. लडाखच्या गोठलेल्या झान्स्कर नदीवरून १०-१२ दिवस चालत गेलो. लय भारी अनुभव. दोन वेळा अवस्था कठीण झाली होती. एकदा त्या थंडगार कमरेएव्हढ्या पाण्यातून ८-९ मिनिटं चालायला लागलं. त्या पाण्याखाली घसरडा बर्फ. नदीचा आवेग प्रचंड. १०-१५ मिनिटे त्या पाण्यात पाय राहिले तर काळे-निळे होऊन कापायला लागतील अशी भीती गाईडनेच घातलेली. “ठंडे ठंडे पानी में” हे गाणं म्हणू की अथर्वशीर्ष म्हणू अशी अवस्था झाली होती. दुसरा अनुभव म्हणजे एका ठिकाणी नदीवरच्या बर्फात पाय अडकला. खाली खोल नदीचं खळाळणारं पाणी बोलावत होतं आणि बर्फाला तडा जाऊन मी पाण्यात पडू नये म्हणून आडवं पडून तिघे जण मला काढायचा प्रयत्न करत होते. शेवटी बाहेर निघालो. नंतर पायात संवेदना यायला एक महिना लागला. खूप वेळा घसरून पडल्याने माकडहाड सरकलं होतं. घरीदारी आणि ऑफिसमध्ये एका टायर वर बसून वर्षभरात ते शेवटी जागेवर आणलं.

IIT मध्ये दुसऱ्या वर्षात असताना लक्षात आलं की आजूबाजूला मित्रांनी बराच प्रवास केला आहे. मी आणि अरुण जोगेश्वरी आणि पुणे ह्याच्या पलीकडे गेलेलो नाही. पण प्रवासाला पैसे कुठून आणायचे? तरीसुध्दा दोघेजण ९० दिवस उत्तर भारतात हिंडलो. फक्त ११ दिवस हॉटेलात राहिलो. श्रीनगर, अनंतनाग आणि आग्रा. बाकी ठिकाणी रेल्वे फलाटावर झोपलो. भिकाऱ्यांशी गप्पा मारल्या. आणि त्यांनीच शिकवल्यानुसार दोन रुळांच्या मधल्या पाण्याच्या पाईपलाईन खाली अंघोळ केली. सगळी शहरं चालत बघितली. अजमेरच्या दर्ग्यावर श्रद्धेने चादर चढवली आणि सुवर्ण मंदिरात लंगर केलं.

माझ्या आणि अंजलीच्या आयुष्यातले दोन सुवर्णदिवस म्हणजे आरतीचा MIT मध्ये आणि तेजसचा Univ of Chicago मध्ये प्रवेश. अगदी जवळचे दोन मित्र सोडले तर ह्या महान विद्यापीठात माझ्या ओळखीचं कोणीच नव्हतं. सगळी मेहेनत त्यांची, अभ्यास त्यांचा, पण आम्हाला इतर पालकांसारख्या फुकट क्रेडिट घेत टणाटण उड्या मारायला काय जातंय? जगावेगळा विचार करण्यात ह्या मुलांनी किती तरी वेळा आमची दांडी उडवली आहे.

मी कॉलेज संपेपर्यंत सांस्कृतिकदृष्ट्या अगदी कर्मदरिद्री होतो. कधी नाटकं बघितली नाहीत. गाण्याच्या कार्यक्रमाला गेलो नाही. पैसे नव्हते हे खरं. पण फुकट कार्यक्रम सुध्दा कधी बघितले नाहीत. IIT मधल्या मूड इंडिगो ह्या दोन दिवसांच्या सांस्कृतिक सोहोळ्यात मी चक्क भीमसेन जोशींचा कार्यक्रम आखण्यात मदत केली होती. पण ५ मिनीटं सुध्दा तो कार्यक्रम बघितला नाही. आता दहा फुटांवरून संजीव अभ्यंकर आणि कौशिकी चक्रवर्ती ह्यांच्या मैफिली ऐकतो, जगप्रसिद्ध गायकाबरोबर बरोबर गप्पा मारत बसतो आणि प्रख्यात नाटककार आणि गायक आमच्या स्वैपाक घरात १५ मिनिटं सुंदर गाणं गातो. अशा वेळी माझा आधीचा कर्मदरिद्रीपणा मला जास्तच जाणवतो.

माझ्या आयुष्यात गुरु, शिक्षक, मित्र ह्या नात्याने काही भन्नाट माणसं भेटली. काहींनी आवड म्हणून आयुष्यभर गिर्यारोहण केलं, काही आयुष्यभर ब्रीज खेळले, पर्रीकरांसारखे काही जण “Mr Clean” अशी इमेज असलेले राजकारणी झाले, वसंत लिमये सारखे लेखक झाले, राजू भट सारखे शेतकरी झाले. काहींनी गणितात महत्वाचं संशोधन केलं, काहींच्या पुस्तकांनी अख्खे नवीन विषय निर्माण झाले आणि काही जण विख्यात जागतिक कंपन्यांचे CEO झाले. मला नुकताच कळलं की माझे एक कॉलेजमधले शिक्षक, श्री द्रविड, हे गानसरस्वती किशोरीताई आमोणकरांचे पहिले शिष्य होते. ही बहुतेक सगळी मंडळी जमिनीवर पाय ठेवून जग बदलण्यात अगदी मग्न आहेत. ह्या भन्नाट व्यक्तींनी माझं आयुष्य इंद्रधनुष्यासारखं अगदी रंगीबेरंगी केलंय. त्यांचे हे ऋण फेडण्याच्या पलीकडले आहेत.

माझे आणि अंजलीचे ३६ गुण जुळतात. म्हणजे “३” आणि “६” चे आकडे कसे अगदी, म्हणजे अगदी, एकमेकांच्या विरुद्ध असतात, तसं काहीसं आमचं आहे. काही म्हणजे काहीही साम्य नाही. तिला पातळ आमटी तर मला दाट, तिला कोथिंबीर हवी तर मला नको, ती कमी खाते तर मी खूप, तीला खर्च करायला आवडतो तर मला नाही. एक ना दोन, हजारो फरक. पण नीतिमूल्यं आणि सगळ्यांशी एकत्र संबंध ठेवण्याची दुर्दम्य इच्छा ह्यात आमचं जरासुध्दा म्हणजे जरासुध्दा दुमत होत नाही. उगाच नाही आई-बाबांनी थोरल्या सुनेला त्यांच्या थोड्याफार संपत्तीची Power of Attorney दिली होती. बायकोला काय वाटतं कुणास ठाऊक, मला मात्र बायको म्हणून अंजली पुढचे सात जन्म नक्की चालेल, खरं तर अगदी धावेल.

बृहन महाराष्ट्र मंडळाचं आमच्या इथलं अधिवेशन अंजलीच्या अधिपत्याखाली झालं. “कमी तिथे आम्ही” ह्या नात्याने मी त्यात गुंतलो होतोच, पण हे चार वर्षांचं प्रोजेक्ट मी अगदी जवळून बघितलं. अधिवेशनात सामील झाल्याखेरीज ह्याचा आवाका आणि गुंतागुंत ह्याचा इतरांना अंदाज येणं कठीण आहे. एव्हढ्या ३००+ स्वयंसेवकांबरोबर हा डोलारा यशस्वीपणे सांभाळणं हा सर्वात अवघड प्रोजेक्ट होता. अक्षरशः मरेपर्यंत मी हा अनुभव विसरू शकणार नाही. ह्या अधिवेशनातल्या ५००हून अधिक जबरदस्त गोष्टी मला माहीत आहेत. माझे IIT मधले आगळे वेगळे मित्र श्री पर्रीकर यांच्याशी संपूर्ण दोन दिवस गप्पा मारायला मिळाल्या ही त्यातलीच एक गोष्ट.

स्वतःची कंपनी काढायचा मला जबरदस्त किडा होता. तो माझा प्रयत्न संपूर्णपणे फसला. मला वाटलं होतं की मी “महान” आहे. भारतात मोटारींना नवीन प्रकारचं प्लास्टिकस् लागतंय. नवीन टेक्नॉलॉजीची गरज आहे. पण टाटा ग्रुप आणि पाश्चिमात्य कंपन्या ह्यांच्या पुढे माझा काय टिकाव लागणार? शेवटी टाटा ग्रुप मला म्हणाले की तू आम्हालाच सामील हो. ह्या लफड्यात कशाला पडतोस? मी शहाण्या मुलासारखा गाशा गुंडाळला आणि टाटा ग्रुपला जॉईन झालो. महाराष्ट्रीयन माणसांना अपयश पचवायला कोणीही शिकवत नाही. खूप म्हणजे खूपच त्रास झाला. पण नंतर टाटा ग्रुपमध्ये खूप मजाही आली.

असंच दुसरं सपशेल अपयश म्हणजे माझा आयर्न मॅन शर्यत धावण्याचा प्रयत्न. ४ किमी पोहायचं, मग १८० किमी सायकल चालवायची आणि मग ४२ किमी मॅरेथॉन शर्यत धावायची. हे सगळं १७ तासात संपलं पाहिजे. त्याचा सराव सुरु करतानाच उजवा गुढगा दुखावला. अख्खा गुढगा कापून कृत्रिम धातूचा गुढगा बसवायला लागला.

माझा अजून एक किडा अंजलीने सहन केला तो म्हणजे भारतात परत जायचा. ज्या देशाने आम्हाला एव्हढं अपरंपार दिलं त्याचे ऋण थोडेतरी परत करायला हवेत अशी माझी भावना. पण हा माझा किडा यशस्वी करण्यासाठी झटली ती अंजली. भारतात परतून संसार लावणं म्हणजे एव्हरेस्टच्या टोकावर जाऊन भांगडा नृत्य करून दाखवण्यापेक्षा अवघड. पण एकदा संसार लावल्यावर तिथे आम्ही ११ वर्ष राहिलो. मुलं पुण्यातच शाळेत गेली. आणि ह्या सगळ्यात कहर म्हणजे अंजलीने पाच वर्ष दर महिन्याला १५ दिवस अमेरिकेचा प्रवास करून कुटुंबासाठी नोकरी सुध्दा केली. हे लिहिताना आणि ते दिवस आठवताना अजून सुध्दा माझ्या डोळ्यात पाणी तरळतं. अशी अर्धांगिनी मिळायला भाग्य लागतं.

मी दहावीत असताना लोणावळ्याच्या दांडेकर प्रतिष्ठानतर्फे वाडा तालुक्यातल्या दुर्गम आदिवासी भागात रोजगार हमी योजनेची पाहणी करण्याकरता माझी नेमणूक झाली. आदिवासी आई आपल्या मुलाला भूक भागवायला झाडाचं पान खाऊ घालताना मी ह्याची डोळा बघीतलं. काय सांगू मी? जगातली सगळी सगळी तत्वज्ञाने किती फोल वाटतात ह्या अनुभवापुढे. आता लिहिताना सुध्दा माझं मन अगदी निःशब्द झालं आहे.

जनरल मोटर्स (GM) मध्ये बरेच वर्ष नोकरी केली. मोटारींना लागणाऱ्या निरनिराळ्या पार्टसची खरेदी हे माझं काम. पार्टस पुरवणाऱ्या कंपन्यांबरोबर कायम हाणामाऱ्या! त्यांना जास्त नफा हवा असायचा आणि आम्हाला पार्टस स्वस्तात हवे असायचे. त्यामुळे कामात कायम ताण असायचा. माझ्या बरोबर काम करणाऱ्या सगळ्यांना मी हसत खिदळत सांगायचो, “गिर्यारोहणात जर चुकून कुठे पडलो असतो तर माझ्या आई-वडिलांना माझं हाडसुद्धा सापडलं नसतं. त्यामानाने हा ताण काहीच नाही.” GM ला पार्टस पुरवणाऱ्या कंपन्यांची मोनोपोली तोडण्यासाठी तीन-तीन वर्षांचे दोन अफलातून प्रोजेक्ट्स केले. (एक अमेरिकेत आणि एक जर्मनीत) कल्पकता, एकत्र काम करण्यातली धमाल, धोका अशा सगळ्याच बाबतीत ही प्रोजेक्ट्स जबरी होती. ह्या विषयांवर माझी चक्क ८००-१००० पानी पुस्तकं लिहून होतील. गोपनीयतेच्या आवश्यकतेमुळे ते काही ह्या जन्मी शक्य नाही. 

सायकल उभी असताना त्यावर बसलात तर पडून ढुंगण शेकून निघतं. तेच ती सायकल चालत असेल, तर पडायला होत नाही. ब्लॅक होल, समुद्रातल्या लाटा, वादळ ह्या निसर्गात आढळणाऱ्या सगळ्या गोष्टी गणितानुसार एकाच प्रकारच्या समीकरणात मांडता येतात. तसंच गणित वापरून द्रव स्वरूपात प्लास्टिक वाहत असताना त्यात लाटा कधी येतात ते ओळखायचं आणि त्यानुसार प्लास्टिकस् गोष्टींची गुणवत्ता आणि उत्पादन दोन्ही वाढवायचं ह्यावर मी संशोधन केलं आणि PhD मिळवली. इतरांनी केलेलं अफाट काम आणि संशोधनाच्या खांद्यावर उभं राहून आपण बंदूक मारणं किती सोपं असतं नाही का?

मी IIT मध्ये पाचही वर्ष दाढी केली नाही. ट्रिम सुध्दा केली नाही. मला बहुतेक मित्र अजूनही “दाढी”च म्हणतात. 

Datar and Dadhi (with his long gown)

आम्ही कॉलेजातल्या २०० विद्यार्थ्यांसाठी पहिल्यांदाच हिमांकन नावाची High Altitude Trek आयोजित केली. डोक्यावर अगदी बारीक केस, लांबलचक दाढी, तुटलेल्या दोन वेगवेगळ्या रंगाच्या स्लीपर्स आणि अंगात घातलेला पायघोळ कोट हा माझा वेष. मनालीत रोज सकाळी बाजारात जाऊन अन्नधान्य खरेदी करणे ही माझी जबाबदारी. एकदा बसमधून दुसराच एक ठाण्याचा ओळखीचा गिर्यारोहक, चिक्या ओक, उतरला. मला बघून तो म्हणाला, “दाढी, कोटाच्या आत काही घातलं आहेस की नाही?” मी म्हणालो, “नाही”. तो भर बाजारातल्या रस्त्यावर मला म्हणाला, “चल, काहीतरीच बोलतोयस. कोट वर कर आणि दाखव मला”. मी कोट वर केला आणि त्याला पटवलं की मी खोटं बोलत नाही. त्याच भर बाजारातल्या रस्त्यावर चिक्याने मला चक्क साष्टांग नमस्कार घातला.

आत्ताशी कुठे एकषष्ठी झालीय. अजून मोठी bucket list आहे. ३,५०० किलोमीटर आणि दहा लाख फूट खालीवर चढणारी Appalachian Trail ची पर्वतातली लांबलचक मोहीम एकट्याने चालत करायची आहे. (आता पुढच्या आठवड्यात एप्रिल, २०२१ मध्ये मी त्या सात-आठ महिन्याच्या प्रवासाला निघत आहे.) स्पॅनिश आणि संस्कृत शिकायचंय. ज्ञानेश्वरी अनुभवायची आहे. चालत नर्मदा परिक्रमा करायची आहे. पंढरीची वारी आहेच. उत्तर ध्रुव आणि अंटार्क्टिकाचा प्रवास, कच्छच्या रणात सायकल, शार्क बरोबर स्कुबा डायविंग, त्या आधी नीट पोहायला येणं.. लिस्ट मोठी आहे. बघू या कायकाय जमतंय ते!!

नितीन (दाढी) अंतुरकर

Roadblock-1 (Even Before the Trail Begins…)

Wise people on the long-distance trails warn that every thru hiker faces at least ten challenges or roadblocks on the trail when one wants to quit the trail. Lo and behold, I had my first roadblock even before I began my trail. What the heck! Now, I have even started counting these roadblocks. Here is number one! Woohooo!!

On Monday (March 22, 2021), I felt funny in the throat when I went on a 12-mile practice trail. By the time I came home, it was a full-blown sore throat. I quarantined myself, started using conventional Chloraseptic spray and took a Covid test early next day. While the test was negative, my doctor started  a standard antibiotics medication. But then things went downhill quickly. By Thursday, I was consuming a so-called “high-strength” painkiller just to get a quick one-hour window to painfully gulp down water and some soft rice. I had no idea what the xxxx was going on!

Finally, at 2 am on Friday morning, me and Anjali landed in the emergency room. There was too much pus around my right tonsil and I needed a minor surgery! The ENT specialist arrived and gave a painful numbing injection inside my throat, removed the pus, and boom, this pain was gone for good. I have not taken any painkiller since my surgery. New antibiotics have now started for the week, and my trail practice is cancelled for a few days. But most importantly, my original date of second Covid-19 dosage was cancelled and has been rescheduled to Monday (April 5).

In all this drama, unfortunately, my start date of the Appalachian Trail thru hike is postponed by ONE week. Predictions of the wise people about such ephemeral plans have come true.

You are all at the front line of my thru hike saga and are getting dragged into this unnecessary drama. But on every such twist and turn, I am learning something that I never thought was possible, and I want you to know about it please. During this saga, I learnt that the stupid action that we all do inadvertently every 15-20 seconds, called “swallowing”, can be a source of so much happiness… only if one notices it. I would have never noticed it without such an excruciating drama.

There is a Japanese proverb which says that “One should eat with one’s eyes first, then with one’s nose and then with one’s mouth”. I have savored beautiful Sashimi to my eyes content in a traditional restaurant in Tokyo, filled every one of the cells in my brain with an aroma of a fresh coffee in the on-campus coffee house at Ann Arbor, Michigan and sipped my beloved “Katachi Aamti” (tamarind based spicy dal curry from western India) allowing it to linger on my tongue forever. But all these foods eventually had to be swallowed. Along with a sip of water in hot and humid Maine, breathing of fresh air on a sharp climb in white mountains and a bite of hopeless Ramen noodles on a famished stomach, now, this swallowing motion will add to the repertoire of simple, basic actions that give me unbelievable pleasures. Who would have thought of such a possibility?

Nitin (Dadhi) Anturkar, March 30, 2021